Les Années Folles: Sans Farine

Two weekends ago now, I was working through the quite fine shop list to get 4th cakes and visited Les Années Folles for a new cake. They had various nutty ones and I chose Sans Farine. I managed to photograph the card, so I can report confidently that it had caramelized hazelnuts, royaltine "diplomat", which is maybe a kind of paillete feuilletine (crape flakes), vanilla whipped cream, and orange. Under the (uncredited) chocolate shell is layers of cake and whipped cream, though I can't remember the distribution of ingredient's beyond that at this point. It's a little packaged snack-cake like in design, but I like it and can call it excellent. This shop will make the cut.

Il Pleut sur la Seine, Le Turin

No cake and little running during the short week, but indoor exercise. Saturday I had a couple appointments, so didn't try a cake-off, but went for the last two (simple) exceptional shops I wanted another new cake for. After the morning appointment, I went to Il Pleut sur la Seine. They are only open a short time every week and they are expensive, but their main thing is the school, so maybe they do best with the basics. I got Le Turin, which if not basic, at least uses basic elements. The biscuit is hazelnut, which gives a special flavor and a nice texture. As the name suggests, the main flavor is chestnut, in different kinds of cream. The chestnut flavor isn't so heavy and it harmonizes well with the hazelnut. So good quality, interesting combination, and solids basic elements make this an excellent cake.

Dandelion Chocolate, H2O Chocolate Mousse & Opera [Hacienda Azul Costa Rica x Hazelnut]

Went to Dandelion Chocolate at Harajuku and the most important thing to say is, don't eat in there, because you're going to be packed among young people who don't.

That done, I would like to go back for take-out. Their signature chocolate seems to be the H2O Chocolate Mousse. I'm not sure I saw anyone else get any other cake. It's an excellent cake, though be warned that you can't expect much in the way of variation, so splitting it with a partner seems reasonable.  

The other cake I got was Opera: Hacienda Azul Costa Rica x Hazelnut. This is a tiny cake, but super rich with buttery nut layers. I'm a little uncertain on this one as well, though I ate more than half, but I'm going with excellent again.  

There are pistachio and almond version of the opera, but looking for a great cake, I should probably try a more varied cake next.

Pierre Hermé, Tarte Infiniment Praliné Noisette

It's been years maybe, but it's finally Pierre Hermé's turn to get a new cake not related to a cake-off win (though it has earned a good number of those so far), as I've already had a new cake from FC and no where at the same or higher level either has a new cake or has had few enough for me to be looking for one. The timing is good, too, because the Tarte Infiniment Praliné Noisette is in the form of their best tarts (the vanilla one is a standard) and also promising in terms of the ingredients, at least for me. It lived up to expectations and was great. Since I've promoted two JPH cakes in the line-up to great, the plan for Thursday became an early cake-off, again sourced from Isetan.

 

Yu Sasage, Montélimar Noisette

Took a half day off and didn't accomplish many things. That's normal, but I actually did try and did accomplish a few things, as the list of things is pretty long now. However, especially because I mistook the Sadaharu Aoki schedule (there was a new cake today, but only in Nagoya, which gets special treatment from JPH as well), I did go for cake, by bicycle. Yu Sasage is along the borderline between the exceptional and quite exceptional shops and was in line for a cake to try to make the jump. There were a couple promising new cakes, the other a chiboust, but I went with the Montélimar Noisette, which was explained as having Montélimar mousse, which I didn't find informative, since Montélimar is a place name, though I guess I new it was associated with honey. Actually, they were using it to mean honey meringue, which I'll have to try to remember and confirm that as tracking with what other shops mean. Other components are, obviously, hazelnuts, in mousse form, as well as dacquoise. It was definitely good, but is maybe too small and light a cake for me. This might be a case were some fruit would help.

 

L'Abricotier, Duja Orange

 I wasn't intentionally being greedy, just sticking to plan and went to L'Abricotier for the new cake they should have gotten before the last Viron cake. It's only another 8 km after 5 km to Ginza, so less of a daily run than the previous day so I was expecting to come up empty and have to go on to Yu Sasage, which I assume would be as far, but actually there were two new cakes to choose from. For today, I skipped the raspberry chocolate cake and took the Duja Orange. This shop is big on pairing nutty with fruit, so even though orange is a difficult fruit, I was interested in how it would pair with Gianduja (chocolate and hazelnut). Once again, I got lost on the trains, so it took twice as long as it should have to get back. I liked this cake, which I can say is definitely excellent. Mainly, I like the Gianduja cut with enough other stuff not to be too strong, though maybe orange isn't the perfect fruit.

Les Cacaos, Chocolat Noisette

Thursday, I took off the PM and went out for cake. Wasn't sure whether I would find it, since pandemic was exploding in Tokyo, but cake shops have materials, and expenses, so they go on. Under the circumstances, I changed from running and coming back by train to bicycling both ways. Still looking for a shop to promote to exceptional, I went first to Les Cacaos for a 6th cake. Chocolat Noisette seemed like a good bet, though not one that always pays off. This one had a nice thick biscuit with some toughness, reminding me of a cake from PS. For additional flavoring, this has orange, which worked for me. It's simple, but excellent, so I'm promoting them (Jun Homma will have to wait its chance).

Frédéric Cassel, Inspiration Azalea

Monday, I worked a little late and figured I should take a rest anyway, so I used a bicycle to go to Ginza for cake. My first choice shop's new cake has coffee, so I'll wait for next month. My back up was Frédéric Cassel's new cake, Inspiration Azalea, which is the cake for this month's theme of Chocolat Banane, which is an improvement on recent coffee themes but still not what I would choose. Nevertheless, this looked like my kind of cake in terms of construction, and the card promised yuzu, so not just straight chocolate and banana. I figured I could trust them. Reading the details, there is also hazelnut chocolate cream and hazelnut dacquoise. But they were serious about the banana, with almost half of the inside being banana compote. While I'm still not enthusiastic about banana, with was excellent, so if they had another banana cake now, I'd be happy to try it, but they've scaled back on the introduction of new cakes. Out of order, at home, I first also did my indoor non-weights workout.

En Vedette, Rocher

Tuesday, under the threat of heavy rain and wind (and during medium rain, but not so cold), I went down to Shibuya Scramble Square (the building) to visit the En Vedette counter, since they are one of three candidates among quite fine shops vying for two possible spots in the exceptional group. I didn't try to any a neighborhood clump because of the rain, and because I wanted to do a weights workout when I got back, which I did. I chose the Rocher, though there were other tempting cakes. On the way home, I noticed that they were taking down the pedestrian bridge over Meiji-dori Ave. that crosses in Jinguumae and gets me to all those big loops to the west. I think I can cross further south (though it will probably become more convenient when the construction north of Shibuya Stn. finishes, since now it takes two bridges), but it's going to shift all those west loops down in priority slightly. I'll need to recalculate. I should also mention, though I had noticed Monday, that Nana Gâteaux is now Amiri, though they're still selling cake during the day, actually from earlier than before, just they're a bar restaurant as well.

I really liked the Rocher. Top and bottom is nut-based "biscuit" sandwiching an equal (combined) width of almond and hazelnut flavored butter cream. This is accented by lemon ganache. It's fairly simple, but the text and balance are just right, so I'm going to call it great, which should guarantee them a spot among the exceptional shops, though I'll wait until I've had at least two more cakes from them. It also means this will be one of the cakes in the next cake-off, unless the PH cake I just saw disappears again (it's been almost three years since I last saw it).

Viron: Petit Bûche

Christmas Eve, I went to Viron, my highest priority shop (among places with new cakes available), in Shibuya, since that's on the middle three loops (formerly 5 loops) that I'm reconfirming now. I didn't want to do the loop in the middle first or do more than one loop running with cake, so after getting cake (which came, while I was waiting, with a sample of hot wine, a little more than maybe I should have taken, but it served as my snack for this run), I crossed the street and finished off the sleaziest loop, running clockwise the Dougenzaka--Maruyamachou--Shinsenchou loop, which is now part of the Southwest Shibuya Stn. clump, making it almost 15 km long.

The Shibuya Viron shop is open until 22:00, which is why I choose it, because I knew I'd be busy until about  20:00. All they had were Christmas cakes, but they had a couple choices. I looked at what was probably chocolate mousse on the outside and fruit inside and decided that was a dangerous combination (it doesn't take much fruit for a bad balance), and was attracted by hazelnuts and praliné, Petit Bûche. It was very traditional, in it's way. Good but not exciting and the frosting falls off easily, since it's pretty firm and chosen for keeping the log texture.

Jean-Paul Hévin: Bûchette Hope

Last Thursday, probably again working late, I skipped Isetan and Marunouchi and went straight to Ginza Mitsukoshi by bicycle to get Bûchette Hope, the individual version of the most expensive of the regular sized Christmas cakes (probably because of the decoration ball not on the individual) of Jean-Paul Hévin. Based on descriptions of the full-sized cakes, the top chocolate mousse is Ecuadorean bitter chocolate, next is crème brûlée using Tahitian vanilla beans and a little timut pepper, then the same chestnut and almond biscuit as Bûchette Lichen, then a flour-less chocolate biscuit, and finally a chestnut powder sablé, hazelnuts, and caramel flavored chocolate croustillante. Like the previous day, a relatively crunch/dry cake that is a nice change while still being decadent chocolate. It's easy to say it's a great cake, though it will never get a chance to be in a cake-off. I'll have to wait until next year to see what new Christmas cakes they offer.

At home, I did the indoor workout with weights.

Friday, I did a neighborhood run course, the new Dougenzaka--Maruyamachou--Shinsenchou loop, which merges two new loops. On the way to shopping I discovered a LaDuree salon behind the Bunkamura in Shibuya, not even on Google maps yet, so I had to revise the Kamiyama-chou--Tomigaya--Udagawa-chou loop again. That led to noticing that the Jinnan loops should be merged, which meant the new loop needed to be put in a clump, which has let to a shape up of a few clumps and discovering that the Minami-Aoyama 3&4 loop was linked to the wrong loop. I still have one more clump to fix before it's all sorted out.

Origines Cacao: Noisette Chocolat

Simple run to Ginza and back. Rain started while I was getting cake, but I had heavy jacket in my bag with a hood, which was enough for the light rain, even in December Tokyo. It was time for Origines Cacao's 25th cake, but still a few cakes behind it's new superb category's target level, as well as dominating the quite superb category, though averaged over a lot few categories, so it's got a long way to go to get promoted again, but today's cake was excellent, which keeps it in the running for now. There were two new cakes, and I was focused on the Noisette Chocolat, though the other was marked seasonal, so I should have picked it. Note disappointed though. Very nice chocolate and hazelnut mousse cake.

Sadaharu Aoki, Paris-Brest Chocolat

Wednesday, I went to Isetan to pick up my already reserved Paris-Brest Chocolat, though this time they had extras in stock, even though I arrived significantly later: the newness has worn off. As with their last "Paris-Brest", it is not a Paris-Brest, but rather a cream puff with some hazelnut praliné cream. Then even called it a choux cream when they brought it to me, so they know, but so did I going in. It was good, but pretty mild, as chocolate and praliné don't really stack well, as it were. They just changed over the new cakes, so I'll have to wait at least a little before any specials appear. There are a couple cakes with fairly short and unpredictable line-up times that I'm watching for.

For exercise, I tried some of the revised Sendagaya loops, confirming one, failing one, and getting one way for one, so maybe I'll hit them again tomorrow, as well a couple farther away, as I'll have more time.

La Vie Douce, Marronnier

Tuesday, I got a 6th cake from La Vie Douce, which is challenging the bottom of the next shop category, the exceptional shops. I got the Marronnier (horse-chestnut) early, did my non-weights indoor workout (Monday I did the weights workout after running), and went for about a 90 minute run. My target was the highest priority neighborhood loop, which was the revised Ebisu-Nishi west loop, which I failed, as I didn't recognize an old turn (I think they changed the billboard, but I should just remember that it's the first left after incoming link route). On the way, I finished verifying the Higashi north loop and did two new loops clockwise, the Ebisu-Minami loop and the Ebisu 1 loop. Maybe I'll get back there again on Thursday. It depends how I decide to travel to the Tooyou-chou Station area.

The cake, which has hazelnut, chestnut, and cassis/currant, was definitely good. It's a fall cake, so more nutty than sweet. It's really a quite fine shop, I just wish they would make their yuzu Chiboust again.

Pierre Gagnaire: Chocolat au Praliné Noisette

Went down to Pierre Gaganaire, since its two great cakes out of six made it top of the exceptional category and a challenger for the bottom of the quite exceptional category. It a relative near run, but I did the other half of my indoor workout afterward. Also, on the way I could do the tiny Yotsuya loop counterclockwise and check it off as the last of the Moto-Akasaka clump, which includes the southeast side of Meiji Gaien and the Akasaka Palace environs. I choose Chocolat au Praliné Noisette, which has a great name. Unfortunately, it's pretty dry, like a hard brownie (though more tasty, but now it gives me the idea of trying to heat it (after removing the cream and sheet chocolate). Anyway, good but not exciting, so the quite exceptional category can proceed. Found a bakery cafe down there in Akasaka 1 as well, or at least a listing of it on a building, but I'll have to look in detail later. I'm already down with the Akasaka 1 loop, but there are neighboring loops that I've only done one direction.

Camélia, Carmelina

Camélia, Carmelina

Went to Camélia in Ginza for a second cake, since the first one was excellent. Got the cake I was looking at, Carmelina (the "n" is silent in the Japanese at least). This is a relative thick dacquoise base with large bits of hazelnuts under cream made of caramel and mascarpone cheese (based on a user post; I didn't try to research the card that closely, since I forget during running anyway). Definitely my kind of thing and excellent. I like the flavors, though the usual ones, and the texture mix is great. This seems to be a quite fine shop. I'll probably be back next week for the third cake. I only ran one way, walking back to protect the cake, and my side, which is still giving me trouble. I'm probably over stretching it, so I'll watch it. It's not the side that needs the most stretching anyway.

The Ritz-Carlton Café and Deli, Caramelia Pineapple Hazelnut

Ran down to the renovated The Ritz-Carlton Café and Deli for a third cake, working in some 1-min dashing spurts. They don't seem to have pastries and bread any more and very modern looking (and dark). It looks nice. As my third cake, I went with the Caramelia Pineapple Hazelnut, whose name speaks for itself. I walked it back. It was definitely a good cake, but that's not enough to keep me trying there, so this shop gets shifted to the fine shop category. Only one more 2-cake shop in the quite fine group, which I've at least gotten down below 48, even if no where near the target 32 shops.

Sadaharu Aoki, Cuneo

Got cake from Isetan again, this time Cuneo from Sadaharu Aoki. Had other shopping, so still got a late start on running. Again, I went by bicycle first and parked, this time right on my Roppongi 5 loop, which goes past Azabu-Juuban Station. It's an easy course only 1.09 km, so getting it correct clockwise was not a big deal. I almost got the next one, the Azabu-Dai--Azabu-Mamiana-chou--Higashi-Azabu loop, but there's a short turn after "Rat slope" that I missed because at that point I was not sure which direction I was supposed to go and went up the next slope to the main east-west street rather than curving back around to the main north-south street. At night in a dip, I couldn't tell what direction I was going, but now I know what to do, so next time should be easy, since I was almost done. The Moto-Azabu--Azabu-Juuban loop I knew I had no idea, though the main trouble is around the station, so if I can get through that part, the rest should be okay (if full of steep slopes). I might make it next time, but won't be surprised if I don't. I walked a lot of it and decided to then head for home to finish by 9 pm. The Minami-Azabu west loop will have to wait for Saturday, probably.

Didn't read the details and they haven't posted it yet, but the Cuneo is chocolate and hazelnuts flavored by passion fruit. Like last night's, if I was expecting a chocolate taste, I would be surprised. As a review from 2015 pointed out, it's sour (for lack of another English word), but not in a bad way. Certainly the balance was good, so it wasn't just fruit backed by chocolate/nuts but a real harmony (unlike last night's cake, where chocolate could provided little flavor against the fruit onslaught). This was the usual high quality and was definitely excellent.

Cake-off: L'Abricotier's Montelimar over Noix de Beurre's Fraise Chantilly

Walked as far as L'Abricotier's, then to nearest JR Station, then Shinjuku Stn. to Isetan, and then home, which was a lot, and certainly more than other controlled walks, but seemed reasonable, so better than previous walking tests. I was there to get Montelimar for a third-round cake-off of cakes that were one and one. It's opponent was Noix de Beurre's Fraise Chantilly, which is why I went to Isetan. The wait was less than 30 minutes there, which was less than I feared, given the lines from opening time (not sure when or why this started). I questioned last time whether the Fraise Chantilly belong among the greats, but when you want cream and strawberry and a little sponge cake, this is still my favorite, and it is nice sometimes, so I'm keeping it in. However, I like the hazelnut accented by apricot of Montelimar better. Wish it was a little more solid, but then it would be a different cake.

L'Abricotier, Montelimar

Montelimar from L'Abricotier

For the final, 10th day of GW, I choose one holiday-only shop and decided that, under the new shop ranking system, L'Abricotier was by far under-visited as a quite excellent shop with 4 cake-off wins so far. They had a new cake, Montelimar, which is a honey mousse with dried fruit and hazelnuts on top of a hazelnut and Japanese apricot tart. This combination of fruit and nuts is common to many of their cakes, especially my favorite ones from them. I wondering whether there are other nuts in, since some seemed green, suggesting pistachio, and the combination gave a taste that made me think of butter pecan.

Cross-sectional view

I didn't ask, since another customer had come in, but there is a center custard-like disk, but I couldn't distinguish the taste. This cake was great, unlike others I have. I'll match it against Paris-Brest in the next cake-off I think, which is also hazelnuts, but praliné, so completely different from the raw fruity nuts of today's cake, in keeping with the contrast between the trendy modern foreign Machalak and the neighborhood shop L'Abricotier. Less of a ride today. I'll probably rest from even bicycling tomorrow, which I was thinking would be easy because all my cakes during the week will be from Isetan, since I only have two more cakes this week and might eschew pastries (and definitely bread) for reasons of weight control under my current reduced level of activity. I was hoping for a new cake from Sadaharu Aoki, since they are are finishing their main seasonal cakes today, but I'm now thinking that the chance of something totally new is small, and it has not been that long since I had cake from Machalak, so I'm not sure what I was going to get from Isetan. At least I'll visit them to see what the situation is. Maybe I'll finally get to P. Très Calme or Jun Honma again this week, assuming that they aren't taking the week off.