Atsushi Hatae, Caramel Noix

Still way behind, The last cake from two weekends ago was a second cake from Atsushi Hatae, that was nominally listed as a fine shop based on one excellent cake but a priority among those shops, so it's at the ahead of the line, along with a couple other one-cake-sampled shops that had an excellent cake. This was chosen because it was close to a quite fine shop I visited and was the farthest away of the high-priority fine shops. Anyway, they have pretty elegant cakes with varieties that appeal to me, so I was optimistic. I chose Caramel Noix, which I knew was going to be somewhat a challenge, since the basic construction is a dependably traditional but unexciting layer cake with what's a fairly mild flavoring. Nevertheless, they pulled it off excellently, so I can advance the shop to quite fine and expect to get a couple more cakes from there in the near future. 

This was really the second cake (and third for the week, so three left for the weekdays), today, but the first was repeat, so I'll save it for if I come up with a cake-off with it. I ran in the early afternoon for research and wasn't surprised when the weekend-only mille-feuille was sold-out in the evening, but I was surprised to see Addiction, so apparently it's not ended it's run yet, just I'll have to ask for it if I want it early in the day, as they don't have display space, at least on the weekend. I've run into this before, but hadn't thought to investigate it that thoroughly. I should have asked whether the Framboisier is really done, but I'll wait until I'm sure that I want to do a cake-off with it if it's not. Anyway, I got the Saint Honoré Noix et Poire, which is the cake corresponding to this month's "inspiration". This is the 5th saint-honoré and was excellent, like 3 out of 4 of the others (the most traditional caramel one was the only one that didn't especially impress me). This is walnut and pear, as the name says, which is not a combination I've run into before, but both are mild but seem seasonal. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of it, so I've lifted this from their site. Hope they don't mind, though I only had one.

The other new cake they have is a pumpkin (?) Halloween milk crepe cake, which sounds terrible all around, so I'm going to try to avoid it but might feel compelled. It might be the milk crepe cake that convinces me that milk crepe cakes aren't terrible, but that seems like a lot to ask. 

Ease/Repos, Nut, Dried Fruit, and Caramel Tart

Not that I was in a hurry, just I wanted to know how it was before this weekend Repos, so I sent to Isetan a lunch time and got a cake from the new counter, Repos (by P. Ease). It's pretty pricy and away from my usual tastes, so I momentarily gave up but after looking at the visiting counter of the week (a fine shop) and not finding information about when Repos might leave (though they replaced a shop that was there maybe 6 months?), I reconsidered and got the  Nut, Dried Fruit, and Caramel Tart, which was relatively reasonable (nothing exotic or seasonal in it) and looked promising. As the name states, it's a tart, specifically an almond cream tart, on top of which is a crème mousseline of custard, butter cream, and pistachio paste with bittersweet caramel. The topping is nuts (walnuts, almonds, pistachios, and cashews) and dried fruit (raisons and cranberries). Definitely hots of things I like in a substantial tart, so no surprise that I thought it definitely excellent. The name they put on top of the each is Ease. I assume they want to differential the location names because the offerings are different, but they have a pretty big space, offering various bake goods besides the fresh cakes. I should definitely get back there for a second cake earlier rather than latter when it comes time to go in for second cakes from shops that had at least good cakes.

Le Chocolat de H/Paul Bassett, Tarte Banana

Wednesday, I had to work late, but did a run down past Tokyo Midtown from 8 pm trying to get Sadaharu Aoki's Matcha Croissant, unsuccessfully. I did a counterclockwise run to confirm the Roppongi 7 east loop neighborhood course loop, which completes the National Art Center clump of loops. There was rain, but not heavy enough that everyone carrying an umbrella opened them.

I also tried to do the Nishi-Azabu--Minami-Azabu loop and I might have been successful if I followed my intuition, but doubted and checked my map early on. Anyway, I know I'll be able to get it next time, maybe Friday. On the way, I stopped at Café 3206 and got something like Croissant d'Almonde Custard. Not that there was much almond or custard, but the latter doesn't belong inside a croissant. It was good at least, but I don't need to return there soon. The run was about 80 minutes.

Thursday, I also had to work late but could run sooner. This time I went the opposite direction go to Shibuya Hikarie ShinQs to visit the Le Chocolat de H/Paul Bassett café. I arrived by 8 pm, but didn't need to. The eat-in places seem to stay open until 9 pm. This time I got the Tarte Banana. This is pretty thick and heavy, I assume with walnuts, because it reminded me of coffee cake (though that could mean just cinnamon). I should ask next time and update my label. Anyway, it got the balance right, not too moist or dry. I can easily say that it's best banana tart I've ever had, since I usually avoid banana in the my cakes. I might be being generous, but I'll say that it was excellent. Unfortunately, I forget to take a picture.

This shop is currently at the top of the excellent group and higher than some quite excellent shops, but with the advantage that I haven't had to dig as need into the line-up. I'm down to a seasonal Mont-Blanc (not available to me today) and a regular Tiramisu (which was, but banana seemed the lesser or two evils compared to coffee). For running, I finished confirming the new version of the Shibuya east loop. The next one in order is over by Yoyogi, so not so convenient.

Gerbeaud, Gerbeaud (Szelet) and Wafuu Mont-Blanc

Back on Thursday, I tried and failed to set up a cake-off, though I did manage to have some great cake. My plan initially went off the rails because Il Pleut sur la Seine is renovating and I failed to understand the details. Right now, the shop is still open but no fresh cake. They plan to reopen at the end of May, so I'll be waiting a while. Ended up down at Paris S. in Jiyugaoka, but either they sold out early or they have an abbreviated line-up on a weekday, as they had neither the several new nor the specific cake I was look for as a cake-off entrant, though I had just seen it the previous weekend, I thought. But it was good weather and good running.

Friday, I ran without cake, working on the neighborhood course. I failed on the revised East Shibuya loop, but reviewing, it didn't really make sense anyway, so I've revised it again; it looks simple enough now. I was finally able to finish confirming knowledge of the Minami-Aoyama--Shibuya loop and was successful for clockwise at the revised Minami-Aoyama 3&4 loop, so that completion will simplify my next attempt at the other two. I did have a snack from a new counter at Isetan for Beillevaire, which also has a temporary shop at Roppongi Hills and a main shop in Moto-Azabu, so it might count as a neighborhood shop anyway, but I need to confirm both of those. As an Isetan exclusive, they have Mille-Feuille Fromage Pie Blood Orange, which was good but not really that interesting as either pastry or cheese (which is what the shop specializes in).

Saturday, I was busy, so I didn't run, but I did get to Gerbeaud for lunches  and cake sets for two. One cake was Wafuu Mont-Blanc. I'l say it was good, though that is based on two bites. It's a simple cake and not my style even among mont-blanc. It was pronounced delicious but not as good as Angelina's Mont-Blanc, which is more comparable than my preference of mont-blanc, so I'm reasonably confident about the rating. I had all but one bit of the Gerbeaud (Szelet), which as the name implies, is very layered, like a pasty, alternating in apricot jam (like a Sachertorte) and walnut. It was like a cross between a pastry and coffeecake, dry, but not in a bad way. It was a big change from my favorites but a nice change. This was definitely excellent, so Gerbeaud'll make the cut as a quite good Tokyo cake shop.

Tooth Tooth (Salon): Fig and Caramel Nuts Mille-feuille, and Chocolat Mont-blanc

Went to the salon at the main P. Tooth Tooth, in Kobe for tea and cake for two. The Tooth Tooth Blend tea was good (we only ordered tea for one, but it comes in a pot for three cups worth, so it was plenty).

Chocolat Mont-blanc: P. Tooth Tooth

The main desserts were Fig and Caramel Nuts Mille-feuille and Chocolat Mont-blanc, which were both good.

Fig and Caramel Nuts Mille-feuille: P. Touth Touth

I liked the mille-feuille better, though the actual pastry was somehow a little different in construction than what I usually see, but it's hard to say how. It was still "leaves", but they seemed more interweaved, maybe.

Chiboust Pomme: P. Tooth Tooth

The next day, we went again for lunch with cake, and you can choose cake from the regular boutique/takeout cake line-up (though maybe some things were omitted; I didn't compare). The lunch was nice, so I would go back again for that. This time we went for the Mont-blanc and Chiboust Pomme.

Mont-blanc P. Tooth Tooth

The chiboust was the heaviest chiboust that I've ever had, but it was still definitely good. The Mont-Blanc was also more solid than usual, with very little whipped cream. Inside, besides a chestnut, was a layer for semi-solid custard, I don't know whether I've seen custard before in a Mont-blanc, but its seems very Kobe-style. The base was a walnut biscuit (coarse cake) and there were walnut pieces throughout. Actually, the paste of the "mont" did not have much of a chestnut flavor, as far as I could tell, so this was really more of a walnut mont-blanc, which makes it interesting enough that I'll hazard an evaluation of excellent.

Tops: Chocolate Cake

Back from New Year travel and did a lot of running Wednesday, more than 2 hours, and there was some walking around too. I had intended to practice some of the newer courses to learn them, such as Akasaka, but my phone failed on me. I thought I had messed up my Google maps online, but apparently my phone was just disconnected from the network and needed a reboot. I did get a couple pictures of new places for the neighborhood map and then went and found out when Toshi Yoroizuka and Bien-être would open up again by physically going to their shops (at least they are willing to post information on their doors, even if not online). In the evening, I was at Isetan again and got something that I haven't had for several years and figured I should review, Tops' Chocolate Cake. Actually, I'm not sure what cake of theirs that I've had in the past, as it was many years ago. This is a layer cake of chocolate cream and sponge, with some walnuts, but they are very mild. It's definitely good cake, though not my kind of thing (either, milk chocolate or sponge), so I don't expect to be back soon (plus, the smallest cake is a two-person size).

à tes souhaits!: Grenoble

Did a second visit of à tes souhaits! by bicycle, trying to bring up all the Quite Excellent shops to two fresh cakes. I had the afternoon off, but first I had to go buy a new bike pump that took French valves and had a pressure gage and hen I did really understand how to use it (it's super simple, but I'm simpler). Eventually I got it and then got to the shop at probably around 3 pm. à tes souhaits! is the most crowded place that I know (and they've opened up a separate shop next door for ice cream and I forget what else), which is why I prioritize getting there on a weekday. I don't know why other than there not being much else out there and they appearing at the top or near on Tabelog, the main restaurant rating system.

There are two tables out from and there was a window when one became open (not that surprising, as people usually come for take-out), so I snagged it and was able to eat my cake. The cake is called Grenoble and is walnut and caramel. The walnut is highly sugary, not to the point that it was not definitely good but too much that ultimately I decided that it depended too much on that for flavor, so I could not really say that it was excellent. Maybe it would done better if I had tea and it had chilled a while first (even straight from the shop, I often find cake not as chilled as I would like, so this may just be partially my preference. The end result is that this shop stays in the Quite Good category, so it will be a couple years before I get back there (but it seems likely that they'll still be there).

Full disclosure, in the late afternoon I ran a few kilometers to P. Shima to correct the name of their cake from Tuesday. I was a little tired from cycling, so that was only 9 km/h. I'll see about getting to the last one-cake Quite Good shop (which just means that the one cake was excellent).

[Wed] 14 Juillet Tokyo: Au Lait Noix

Sasadera at night

The little Inari shrine on the same grounds as Sasadera

Worked a little late, but 14 Juillet Tokyo is open until 9 pm, which is not the same as having a good selection that late. Still, I can't complain, as it happens. I left Runtastic to measure the distance, which worked out. It's about 5.5 km to "New" Marunouchi Building, where the shop is, and I did 10 km/h and 9 km/h back with cake. For a change, and because the distance is not that much different, I returned going north, completing the loop around the inner moat (though I left the course at the northwest corner).

The cake I chose was Au Lait Noix (actually, it was written "Noa", but let's pretend not), which has some aspects of a chocolate tart. Milk chocolate is not my favarotie and often fails, but the walnut and jasmine made this something different and the base gave a good texture contrast to the creamy top, so I'm going to say that this was great.

[Sat] Limevert: Noir Chocolat

Saturday was another long research ride. I tried the technique of asking, which rarely works (Hidemi and Viron it did, but those are pretty high-end with long histories, so I'm not surprised that the staff has some knowledge of the schedule, unlike part-time staff at less famous places). Also, I spent a lot of time lost from not trying to follow a particular path; too many rivers make too few straight roads, so on a cloudy day, it's easy to get turned around. More than once I had to reverse course once I realized where I was, but at least I never completed loop myself. Need to find out about mounting a smartphone with a map app to my bicycle.

At Limevert, I got the Noir Chocolat, which is dark chocolate with some nuts over chocolate mousse with probably Bavarian cream flavored by earl grey. It was well composed and so should perhaps have been excellent, but perhaps because I have a lot of chocolate, I couldn't say that this was interesting enough that I would want to make it even if I could, which is my working definition of excellent cake (not that I've done any baking at all lately, which is a problem, because I have two eggs at the limit of their usability, perhaps: 3 months past "expiration"). Although not pretty, I'm including a half eaten version so that the inside is visible. I'll without hold that from Twitter version and would certainly not post that to Instagram (which I've yet to post to, since I don't have a smartphone, but see the above related remark to guess my future shopping plans).

As almost the last shop (I stopped at the Ginza Mitsukoshi on the way back), I also got a pasty from Éclat des Jours for the first time, a Kouign Amann. This was usual, in that what would usually be a single solid crystal of caramelize sugar was instead left almost completed granular, melted only just enough to make it stick together. I'm not convinced that its a better idea, but its was interesting to try. Also, this seemed like the saltiest puff pastry I've ever had, though not to a point of being a problem.

(Sat.) Bubó Barcelona café: Pear Caramel and Xabina

Was busy an also generally very hot for running (sunny with a high of 35 degC), especially with cake, [for this entire three-day weekend]. Fortunately, it's not too far from Omotesando Station to Bubó Barcelona, especially if you stop at Crayonhouse for a vegetable-intensive (I skipped the chicken) organic buffet. Bubó Barcelona is very modern, though the second-floor space leaves the ceiling and walls bare rather than covering the pipes and things. We went fairly early, I suppose, between noon and 1 pm, and were the only customers when we arrived (in the café/salon; a guy was taking phone photos of the cakes on the first floor). Only a few people came in upstairs while we were there, so I'm a little worried about their longevity. The bakery café nearby was packed on both floors, with people waiting. There were a lot of foreigners specifically coming there (it's a back street with not a lot of things, so most people we saw were going there, but someone got the $200 haircut next door).  They must have a good promotion scheme going on somewhere.

Though at the café, the cake comes with extra bits, as shown (and cost 200 yen extra), but it's still the same as the take-out cake, so it's reasonable to dual list this as cake and café. I only had about half of each, but the Xabina was about the same as before. I was less excited about the Xabina the second time and the chocolate seemed a little watery to me initially, but I got past that and will stick to my original excellent rating. The Pear Caramel was also excellent. Actually, walnuts are more very prominent in this and it's not actually very caramel flavored, but rather more syrupy, which probably depends on how long/hot you coot the sugar for the caramel.

Henri Charpentier: Sachertorte

Well, I avoided them for two years, but illness and cake lust drove me to finally go to Henri Charpentier, which was most convenient at Isetan. My avoidance was because they generally have soft boring cakes, which I bypassed this time by taking the Sachertorte (540 yen), which is a relative heavy cake, even there. And the balance with the apricot and sweetness (the chocolate probably matters, but is relatively weak, which is what I would expect) means it was unexpectedly excellent, so I can't dismiss them as uninteresting, though I've never thought they were incompetent, so it's not a shock. On my personal list, they now come on the newly arranged "Quite good" list, which is the bottom few dozen of the top several dozen Tokyo cake shops, most of which I've only sampled from a two or three times. Only one cake means I should get back there and try something else sometime relatively soon.

I haven't had any other fresh cake lately, but I got some Mohave Raisin and Walnut Brod from Andersen, which was excellent toasted and buttered (so it's not really fair to compare it to untoasted and buttered bread), and Cinnamon from Hediard, which is very heavy on the walnuts and good, but not better than my modest expectations, both again via Isetan, which is about as far as I'm up for currently.

La Base Secrète du GAMIN: Mousse of the Woods

Did a long run down to La Base Secrète du GAMIN by way of Yoyogi (I had planned to go through Omotesando, but decided it is too crowded), where I got Mousse of the Woods (森のムース; 550 yen), which is layers of pistachio mousse and praliné, though I'm not sure what, though there are walnuts on top. Also, some crunchy bottom. As before, this poor cake was put in a huge box with nothing to keep it in place but it's internal cohesion, which failed, so it got a little battered. It was a long run, about 9 km each way, 11 km/h out and 10 km/h back.

The cake was good, but definitely not excellent. Also, maybe a little sweet.

Heritage: Ambre Noix

Cut out of work as soon as possible (maybe rudely so, but success/failure depended on just a few minutes), and made it to Heritage in northeast Shinjuku-ku in time, though, of course, not many types of cake left just before closing. It's only about 3 km each way, which I did at 11 km/h out and 10 km/h coming back using some unfamiliar back roads.

The cake is Ambre Noix (アンブルノア; 550 yen), I think, since "amber walnut" makes more sense than "jet" (ambre noir). This is walnut, though I didn't read so carefully as to remember walnut what. I suspect some egg, like a meringue or chiboust rather than cream (chantilly), though there were multiple layers, so actually I expect both. In any case, walnut is not a common taste I get with this type of cake and I appreciated it, making this a second excellent cake from what seems to be an excellent shop, so I should get back there again in the not so distant future, although my priorities now are Limevert, Dalloyau, Noix de Beurre, and Morozoff, as well as new places.

It's been a while since I could run long two weekends in a row, so potentially I'll expand my recent two-week top amount by 10% or more, so I don't need to expand my one-week top amount this weekend. Reviewing where I went wrong last Monday, I've found that I was at 118% of my old three-day top amount, which is maybe okay, but I shouldn't be doing it at maximum speed on a cold day, for example.

Homemade brownie for training run

As expected, worked too late to get to Heritage, so I took a no-patisserie day in preparation for the next cake-off (probably Wednesday). My goal was seven 500 m intervals at 13.0+ km/h. Had some trouble at the beginning with the watch display, but finally got it going. It was hard running, although that was partially because, just to be safe, I was aiming for 27 s for each 100 m, though 27.5 s would be okay. I made all seven, with six closer to 14 km/h and one actually above 14.0 km/h. For my short legs, that's not bad. And it feels great afterward running slowly (I was doing about 9 km/h in between and before and after).

Desert was a tiny homemade brownie (well, a couple, actually, before and after dinner, since I need to take in both protein and sugar within 30 min of exercising in order to build muscles). I also had a glass of wine, which may have been a mistake, as the running alone is sufficiently relaxing, so the wine just makes me weak.

Glycine: Grenoble

Despite some rain, went to P. La Glycine in Meguro, near the river. I walked 9 km at 6 km/h and ran 3 km at 7 km/h, so still super slow. Could feel the running in my problem leg area, but seems okay. Still, I think I'll take a day off tomorrow and go out early Saturday and Sunday.

Ate in, outside under an awning. I had the Grenoble for 550 yen. It was good. It's a chocolate walnut tart with an almond crust, caramel, and fresh cream on top. It didn't really go beyond the base ingredients, and the caramel was the bitter almost coffee-like kind, which was okay eating it, but did not help and left a slight unwelcome aftertaste.

In the evening I made Italian-style meringue macaron shells. Seem okay but once again I probably didn't get enough air out, as they are rather hollow and bumpy.

Only remaining Excellent shop on my list I need to visit for a third cake is Chez Cima, which has a counter at Isetan. Before that, I want a sixth from Yu Sasage, which is expected to be on the Near-Great list.

Walking to Limevert: Mer

Had a half day off today, so walked to Limevert patisserie café, which took about 13 km at I guess 5 km/h (had trouble with starting and stopping chronometer correctly), sometimes in heavy rain (tｙphoon pasｓing through tonight). Happy keeping it slow, as I want to work on my distance before trying again to regain some speed. Managed to follow the correct route in the middle for once going to this area.

The end is easy, because I'm following the elevated train line for several stations. Never can remember the station name (Soshigaya-ohkura), but recognize Ultraman (not sure what the connection is, and there's at least one more in Yokohama).

Shop does not really stand out and is narrow, but they have the usual stuff and pastries. Already ordered the canelé (230 yen) for the road before noticing the bostock (which would have been hard to eat neatly walking down the street), but it was good (it was a well-baked one, which I like over soft ones).

The Mer (550 yen) is various things: earl grey flavo(u)red milk chocolate, apricot gelatin, and caramel walnuts. It was definitely excellent and I'm going to call it great because I haven't had one this before and I'd like to have it again. For good or bad, the flavor makes me think of pie. For one thing, it's not very firm, but it took a while to bring it back. Not sure what the connection to the "Sea" is.

Almost forgot, tried a couple more caramels from Henri le Roux yesterday: Citron Vert (lime) and Diable Rose (banana, raspberry, and passion fruit). Very good candy and it's interesting to taste very good candy, but I prefer the chocolates.

Thursday: Andersen Walnut Scone

Didn't run, nor will I be running for another couple weeks, but went to Andersen Isetan and this time I got actual bread: a Walnut Scone for 248 yen. Besides walnut, it seemed to have maple in it, but in any case, it was excellent.

I also tried cooking. I've got some new ingredients around the house, specifically, at lot of almond powder and also powdered egg whites, so I looked in the Super Patissier Book and found something that I could sort of do: I have the ingredients for the cake part (but not the filling, which is way too complicated, as they often are), which is macaron-like, and thus starts out like meringue, which I've failed with over and over again. This time, it looked reasonable, although still, merginue is a mystery to me, since there are hints not to over-whipping it or you'll break the proteins and they do it in just a couple minutes on yuutube, and elsewhere I've read and been told that it takes a long time (one recipe recommends 9 minutes for the degree of stiffness required), so I'd like to see whether I can get it a little stiffer. Just case, I also prepared ingredients for financier, in case I found myself with just a bowl of egg whites and sugar, but those went back in the refrigerator. I don't have the baking supplies for the recipe though, though, so the bottom was still a mess, but that didn't stop me from eating it. One project for the weekend is to buy a Silpat and that thing you squeeze pastry out of with 1 cm diameter nozzle.

Saturday: L'Abricotier

Today's project was to walk the Yakushi "Peaceful Wood" Walk, which is the first part of the Suminami History and Culture course. Actually, the main point was to visit L'Abricotier, and the walk was a convenient associated activity. Unfortunately, we ate lunch after the walk and just before going back to the shop, which made me too full, although I didn't notice until after eating the cake, but it might have affected my evaluation.

The selected cakes were Desir and Savarin for 450 and 480 yen (before 8% tax). The Desir is a chocolate mousse with raspberry mousse inside. It was definitely good, although I'm not easily impressed by either raspberry or chocolate mousse these days. This was high quality but did not really try to do anything original, beyond decoration. Savarin is definitely not my thing, nor are pears, although this was good and the chocolate cream in the middle was a nice touch, as well as the chocolate cream visible on top, so this was definitely good too. This is a definitely an excellent cake shop, which is probably the best it can be in its location, where it can't specialize in only great cakes, like shops in core shopping areas can, but has to meet the local market. It is similar to my other excellent shops that I've made several visits to. Also, they are cheaper than the great shops of course.

Interestingly, there was another hardcore cake eater in the shop with us, evidenced by having 4 plates. He also was carrying some pretty big water bottles, so I suspect he was a cake urban hiker. It would be fun to track down his blog, but haven't been able to.

We also got a couple things for the road, which we ate much later but before reaching home. These were a Tranche Orange for 230 yen, which is candied (?) orange partially covered with chocolate and was good, and an Angadine, which is a sandwich cookie of nougat and walnut and was excellent.   

Tuesday: Un Grand Pas

As predicted, I got cake from Un Grand Pas again, since the first was very good and interesting and this may be my last chance for a while. This time was Périgord, perhaps, guessing from the Japanese, for 450 yen. This is caramelized hazelnuts and walnuts. The top and bottom are pretty hard, like a nougat, but brittle enough to cut easily. Also, it is pretty sweet, which I don't mind, but would get tired of in every cake. Very good. Now I just have to wait for them to visit Isetan again in a year or two.