Au Bon Vieux Temps, Ali-Baba and Belle Hélène

Ran down to Au Bon Vieux Temps on Sunday, and not by the shortest way, just because I wanted to keep running rather than wait for lights to change. Got there a little bit after 10 am, which is a little late, since they open at 9 am. Their Marjolaine was down to the last piece, and that's their best cake, though I was there for new cake, not that. I'm actually two behind on them because of cake-off wins, so I decided that if they had two new cakes (and that don't seem to vary the line-up much), then I would get them, which I was able to do.

I went with two other semi-traditional cakes. One was Ali-Baba, which was closer to the original version that became the Baba in that it had custard inside rather than whipped cream, though it was still rum, which was a later change. It was good, but traditional isn't always best. Note sure whether whipped cream would have been better than custard, but that would be my choice for this type of cake, now that I've tried a custard version.

Sorry for being negative, but the other traditional cake was Belle Hélène. Of course, making this level of fruit replicas is really a new thing, a result of the ease of making silicon molds and access to refrigeration, but the desert of pear with chocolate sauce is old, or at exists independently. It was good, but the semi-solid outer covering round the pear pieces and chocolate (which is most of the cake), is pretty tasteless and doesn't have a texture I find very appealing, though it's interesting to know that pear and chocolate is nice. If I'm look for dessert and there isn't cake I want, it seems like a good option. 

Pierre Gagnaire, Tarte de Poire et Ganache de Groseille

Thursday, which I took the afternoon off and took care of some chores, also involved a short run to Pierre Gagnaire to bring their cake level up to quite exceptional shop category goal of 16 (not counting to cake-off wins), which had to be Tarte de Poire et Ganache de Groseille. So apparently groseille means red currant, versus cassis (black currant). The cake was good, as well as being stylish, as a hotel cake should be. 

 

This was really the second cake (and third for the week, so three left for the weekdays), today, but the first was repeat, so I'll save it for if I come up with a cake-off with it. I ran in the early afternoon for research and wasn't surprised when the weekend-only mille-feuille was sold-out in the evening, but I was surprised to see Addiction, so apparently it's not ended it's run yet, just I'll have to ask for it if I want it early in the day, as they don't have display space, at least on the weekend. I've run into this before, but hadn't thought to investigate it that thoroughly. I should have asked whether the Framboisier is really done, but I'll wait until I'm sure that I want to do a cake-off with it if it's not. Anyway, I got the Saint Honoré Noix et Poire, which is the cake corresponding to this month's "inspiration". This is the 5th saint-honoré and was excellent, like 3 out of 4 of the others (the most traditional caramel one was the only one that didn't especially impress me). This is walnut and pear, as the name says, which is not a combination I've run into before, but both are mild but seem seasonal. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of it, so I've lifted this from their site. Hope they don't mind, though I only had one.

The other new cake they have is a pumpkin (?) Halloween milk crepe cake, which sounds terrible all around, so I'm going to try to avoid it but might feel compelled. It might be the milk crepe cake that convinces me that milk crepe cakes aren't terrible, but that seems like a lot to ask. 

Frédéric Cassel, Rouleau Poire au Thé

 Friday, I wasn't too late to try a run to Ginza Mitsukoshi. I would have been fine not finding anything, since I needed some motivation to run Friday night despite planning to run from the morning on Saturday. As it happens, supply was surpassing demand and I didn't have any trouble getting the target cake as reward for the last cake-off win: Rouleau Poire au Thé. I don't have much respect for roll cake, but the simplicity is sometimes an advantage when the goal is to show off fruit, at least. I can't say the tea was obvious, but that's okay. Certainly the pear was clear and I was feeling mellow enough about both roll cake and fruit that I could enjoy this and call it excellent. Just to mention the run, I didn't try to kill myself getting there and walked it back for cake safety.

Lenôtre, Verrine Baba Agrume

Monday, wanting to fit in a couple weekday cakes this week (since I was busy this weekend), I did my first run to Ginza Mitsukoshi and was somewhat successful. I wanted to get a cake from Lenôtre, which has two seasonal cakes that I haven't tried yet. I could get my preferred choice, but I figured that I would get to both eventually, so no worries. I got the Verrine Baba Agrume, which is a baba in a glass with lots of fruit, specifically orange, pear, and Japanese apricot. While verrine and baba aren't my preference, I found the abundance of a fruit an improvement over my previous similar cake and can say that this was definitely good. Actually, this puts the shop in danger from challengers below, so I'm not sure that I'll actually get to the other cake, but there are also cake-offs coming up, so I remain optimistic.

Viron: Tarte (Pear) and Tarte Tatin

Sunday, went to Viron (with a reservation) for a nice lunch for two. For dessert, we had Tarte Tatin, which I've had before, but can't find a posting for, so must of been preblog, and the seasonal tart, which was pear. The tatin was great, as before. Apparently, the season would usually be over but is extended this year, so it's still possible to get.

The seasonal pear tart was a pretty standard baked tart, but baking is what Viron is good at, so it was definitely excellent. I need to get over there more often. This is the only place I know with great café desserts (though there are places that sell their take-out cakes for eating in that have some great cakes), despite trying various other places, so I've pretty much given up searching.

Origines Cacao: Saint-Honoré Caramel Poire

Wednesday, I went for my 23rd new cake (I think, updating) from Origines Cacao and finally got the Saint-Honoré Caramel Poire (I hope that's correct). I ran there, but saint-honoré look a little fragile and the shop seemed a little concerned about my being careful (though that might have been my imagination), so I walked back, and also my right foot gives me trouble, so I figured it wouldn't hurt to rest it (though the problem is not obviously correlated with running). I expect to be pretty active tomorrow, probably bicycle first in the afternoon, then do weights, and then run in the evening.

The cake was definitely the kind I like, so although I can't be sure that it was better than the previous two days', it was excellent for me. The shop still is still challenging FC two ranks above, so I think I can justify going back next week.

Frédéric Cassel, Mille-feuille Chocolat Poire

Sunday, I kept my plan to get a new cake from Frédéric Cassel (I didn't want to go out to ABVT again and I did two new shops last week), which I'm three new cakes behind due to cake-off wins. The advantage of going Sunday was I could get Mille-feuille Chocolat Poire. The regular mille-feuille is their most promoted cake, so I figure I should their mille-feuille a chance once in a while. In a week, I'll get to the next Inspiration cake.

Since the typhoon is coming, I want to do my running early, but really it was too hot. Sunday, I definitely finished of the Azabu-Dai--Azabu-Mamiana-chou--Higashi-Azabu loop, which is the fourth and last making up the Roppongi clump of loops. That was run, but the two other loops I've been working on I walked most, after a heavy rain to raise the humidity, the sun came out in 30+ heat. I photographed a lot of Japanese sweet/snack shops around Azabu-Juuban and went home and found more shops that I missed, so the fact that I messed up the loop at a new twist is not so important. Also, I realized why the Grace Church wasn't originally o the route: it is/was a wedding chappel, not an active church, but it seems to be inactive even for that now. Still, it's not worth changing that part of the loop. Failed the bottom loop for the same reasons as last time, so I axed the stupid green space and it's suicide access path and determined that the hotel cafe was out of bounds (literally, unless you're associated with the US Navy, apparently), so I'm back to just bypassing that whole corner to get around the stoplight. Walking was too slow, and I had to pay for parking; I should have gone back after the first loop and moved my bike but I wasn't thinking that far ahead.

The mille-feuille was fine. Chocolate and pear weren't so different from the caramel and apple version, the last one I had. It was excellent, no complaints about quality. Maybe the next favor will excite me more. I don't know how often they change these, but probably 6 months, though it could be 3; I'm not usually paying attention, as they have something new every month so even as my number 2 after JPH, I don't usually have to have every new cake, until Sadaharu Aoki, which I might never get caught up with. Hopefully they'll have another new cake next month, but it will be a special limited cake, so I have to watch closely.

Forgot to mention that I forgot to pack Calorie Mates, so I bought a pastry from Dumbo Doughnuts and Coffee. I got Meringue Lemon, which I hoped was lemon cream filled, but no. It's a big yeast doughnut and it's ok, but I should have waited another block for an actual bakery. Or, I found a Niko later, which, I hope, has better donuts.

Paris S'éveille: Figue Spéculoos & Poire Bergamote

Not sure which runs I did which days on Sunday and Monday. I think I did local runs reviewing loops nearby one day, with mixed success, and a long one-way neighborhood course run down to add the Moto-Azabu--Roppongi loop and the Moto-Azabu loop the other. One of those days also involved Mont-Fuji and Pyramid from JPH, which are repeats, so I didn't bother to take any pictures. Still waiting to find a great cake to match the former up with for a cake-off.

Tuesday, despite being busy, I had some free time (can't remember why) and ran down to Paris S'éveille in response to a recent cake-off win. I was getting cake for two (like the JPH cakes), so now I'm a cake ahead for the next new cake (it might be awhile otherwise, since I want to visit all the under-sampled excellent and quite good shops, which is a lot). They had two new cakes: Figue Spéculoos & Poire Bergamote.

These are both successful as fancy cake and both were good quality, but not too exciting. I'm definitely not that fond the design of the fig/chocolate cake, which is sort of a thin brick. They are right to balance it with a light whip, but I still can't rate it higher than good.

The other was very fruit focused, so not so much my thing, especially the dome of gelatin, though actually the texture was good and I like the balance of that and the tart, as well as the balance of the two fruits, so I'll be generous and rate it excellent, which does not drag them down too much and all the shops in the superb category have the same problem of coming up with new cakes that match the best of their regulars.

Bien-être, Mille-Feuille au Poire

I ran to Bien-être, where I had pre-ordered and prepaid for a Mille-Feuille au Poire (or whatever they were calling it; no card out and they just wrote down mille-feuille on the order, since they only have one type at a time). I took a long way to get there and practiced some of the mega-loop that includes the shop and that I want to practice on Saturday.

The cake is a tough call, but I'm going with excellent, same as all their other mille-feuille. The pear didn't impress me much, so this is maybe my least favorite of theirs, but I still enjoyed the cake plenty and on reflection maybe the pear was doing its job, just it is subtle with the custard. Still need two more new cakes to catch them up as a superb shop.

Sadaharu Aoki, Poire Caramel

This week's Aoki Sadaharu was Poire Caramel. I expected rain in the evening so I planned on exercising inside. I did my push-ups and practices some little used muscle groups, but didn't do as much as I should have. I'm thinking now that I'll do a long run covering the next level 12 loop tomorrow night, depending on the weather. I wasn't planning any cake from tomorrow anyway, so I would get a pastry or bread along the course.

Today's cake was heavy on the pear and light on caramel. I'm not generally very fond of cakes that are fruit dependent, and pear has been a fruit that I haven't wanted in cake, but this was definitely quality pear and this was excellent cake, which does not surprise me at all. Aoki Sadaharu continues to it's dominance as the number three shop, but I'm not going to rearrange my lists for now, since one less than excellent cake from them and one great cake from Bien-être (if I could get a new cake from them) would probably reverse things reverse things.

(Sat.) Vegetable Café Dono: Caramel Poire

I was busy this weekend and before, preparing, so I'm days behind. I'll mention first that Friday was a run without cake, as promised. I verified that my adjusted course through southeast Sendagaya was reasonable. I did check my map once, but sine it confirmed what I suspected, I shouldn'T have any trouble with the new part.

Saturday was cycling. It was colder and wetter than I would have liked. I need to dress a little warmer next time, though I was much heavier dressed than I would for a run that did not involve snow. The goal was to visit Yu Sasage and see weather a cake I had in august would be available for my next cake-off, which it won't back, so I've have to rearrange my line-ups. I'm down to just a few cakes that are available, but I'm I'll only do one before December, when I except some new cakes will be available (Viron told me to expect one and Jean-Paul Hévin still has a number of things that I did not get to last time around.

The nearest new recommend place was Dono, which is a vegetable café, but I decided that I'd give them a try. It was good that I was running late, because I had written down that they open at 10, but they actually open 11, and they did not open on time. They are in middle of a complex of city government buildings, sort of like a juice stand in a quarry. However, there was a group picking up prepared lunches for some group before me, so apparently even on a Saturday, some people find them. There were only a few cakes. Actually, I choice the Caramel Poire rather than one of the actual vegetable ones (I can only remember clearly one cake than mine, but there might have been some sort of roll cake). The pear gelatin put up more resistance to my fork than expected, but the texture turned out to be okay. It took most of the cake to decide, but ultimately I resolved that it was good cake. It was less than 200 kcal, so pretty low sugar for caramel, but that worked in its favor, so they have my respect even if I prefer much more decadent cake.

[Th] Pierre Hermé: Mont-blanc Hommage

I'm way behind. I was busy preparing for a busy weekend, and then I got a new phone that I am still setting up and learning to use, like how to get it to stop blinking and sending me endless messages that I (probably) don't need, in Japanese.

But back on Thursday, it was time to visit Pierre Hermé at Shinjuku Isetan and run around the neighborhood course again, which of course, I've send completely revamped to combine all directly (no stop lights) connected paths between temples, shrines, churches, at least semi-public parks (ones that I can enter for free at most times that I would want to), and cake shops (that I've acknowledged). Again, my plan is to label all these at least minimally and add photos where Google Maps lets me (I haven't found it consistent about that). This day, I went about 11 km, I think, but anyway definitely 77 minutes.

The cake was definitely good, but fell in the category of mont-blanc that I'm not into: really dense chestnut paste (with pear, of course, that being the combination for the monthly ones). There are more in this series, but I think I'll got for the pumpkin tart first, which will at least be different.

Friday, I didn't have time to run, but I did have time to get a Cinnamon Danish from Andersen, and this I found excellent. It really is pastry rather than simple a roll.

Pierre Hermé: Tarte Hommage

The October Fetish at Pierre Hermé is already available, and it is chestnut and pear. I got the tart version, Tarte Hommage. Supposedly, it's whipped cream (flavored with chestnut and pear compote), though it seemed thicker at the temperature that I ate it and I'm not really sure that I would want it whipped-cream soft, so I'm not regretting so much that I didn't give it more time to warm up. It was a lot like pie, which is not necessarily bad but not what I'm usually looking for. In the end, I've decided that it was excellent.

For running, I worked on my neighborhood routes and finally finished the one between Yotsuya Sanchoume, Shinanomachi, and Yotsuya Stations without mistake, which is about a 5.6 km by itself and goes up and down steep slopes or stairs several times. Together with being sore from yesterday's run and the rain, 8 km/h seems a reasonable average speed. Having finally achieved the full course, I rewarded myself with the croissant that I didn't manage Tuesday from Paul at Yotsuya Station. Actually, it was just okay; too baked for my taste or or not fresh enough. Of course, I'm also going to have to adjust the routes, since currently they don't really end at convenient locations (I should have them meet at the main intersections so I can transfer to a different route), though I also need to actually learn the landmarks on the route properly. I'm not sure every temple is actually visible, so I might remove some before I finalize the map. The way they cluster, that would probably not actually affect the route.

(Sat.) Bubó Barcelona café: Pear Caramel and Xabina

Was busy an also generally very hot for running (sunny with a high of 35 degC), especially with cake, [for this entire three-day weekend]. Fortunately, it's not too far from Omotesando Station to Bubó Barcelona, especially if you stop at Crayonhouse for a vegetable-intensive (I skipped the chicken) organic buffet. Bubó Barcelona is very modern, though the second-floor space leaves the ceiling and walls bare rather than covering the pipes and things. We went fairly early, I suppose, between noon and 1 pm, and were the only customers when we arrived (in the café/salon; a guy was taking phone photos of the cakes on the first floor). Only a few people came in upstairs while we were there, so I'm a little worried about their longevity. The bakery café nearby was packed on both floors, with people waiting. There were a lot of foreigners specifically coming there (it's a back street with not a lot of things, so most people we saw were going there, but someone got the $200 haircut next door).  They must have a good promotion scheme going on somewhere.

Though at the café, the cake comes with extra bits, as shown (and cost 200 yen extra), but it's still the same as the take-out cake, so it's reasonable to dual list this as cake and café. I only had about half of each, but the Xabina was about the same as before. I was less excited about the Xabina the second time and the chocolate seemed a little watery to me initially, but I got past that and will stick to my original excellent rating. The Pear Caramel was also excellent. Actually, walnuts are more very prominent in this and it's not actually very caramel flavored, but rather more syrupy, which probably depends on how long/hot you coot the sugar for the caramel.

Éclat des Jours: Caramel Poire

It's hot, though my bigger problem running is still my sore backside (cycling Sunday apparently was not helpful, though not a problem at the time). Still, after the run, it feels much better, so it still seems to be a muscle issue and not something more serious. Not sure of my exact time going out, but the speed was very close to 9.5 km/h, but probably under. Overall the 21 km averaged on the low side of 9 km/h, which could have been worse. This was a run out to Éclat des Jours for a fifth cake, and I got Caramel Poire (486 yen), just based on it being next in line besides the one with coffee, even though it's not something I would expect to like.

It was about what I expected, though definitely good from the start: it's soft cream layers, gelatinous enough to say together, with a good deal of pear. In the end, though, I found myself thinking it was excellent. Still not a kind of cake that I'm very interested in, but I wouldn't mind having (though not planning to have) it again and it wouldn't be a waste of time to learn to make. Don't know why I'm so apparently biased for this place. Perhaps, it's the effort that goes into getting the cake or just that I eat the cake in the comfort of my home with tea after a lot of hard work.

Stopped by Viron on my way and learned that Mille-feuille is available in general (though sold out again), but I missed my chance for Fraise in May and now will have to wait until December. It's looking like the next cake-off will be a mille-feuille battle, which should keep the run relative short.

Il Pleut sur la Seine: Chiboust Poire

Was feeling tired today, though less so (relative to other return runs) on the way back, so it all came about to about 9 km/h for around 10 km total. I am looking particularly at the excellent shops that I've only had three cakes from to see whether any are candidates as new potentially quite excellent shops. It could still wash out later, but I got another great cake, so Il Pleut sur la Seine gets promoted.

The cake was a Chiboust Poire (670 yen). I like a good chiboust, which not everyone makes. This shop seems to do best with the standards, probably related to them having their own school. Eventually I should compare this with other chibousts that I've said are great and see really stands out, but for now I'm just happy to have something different and something great. Basically, the base is like a pear tart, and then you have the eggy part and a top hard
caramelized layer.

I also received a Galette Noir, which was excellent, as far as I can tell from just one cookie.

Paris S'éveille: Poire Caramel

Did my long weekday run, maybe the longest I've done between two full work days (assuming I make it to work tomorrow). It was about 22 km round trip to Jiyugaoka, a fast 11 km/h out and a deliberately slow 9 km/h back with a Poire Caramel (ポワール　キャラメル; 600 yen), which is my 17th kind of fresh cake from Paris S'éveille. It's a fruit dome and the fruit has much of its texture, so it is not just gel, but the caramel was too subtle for me (in Bavarian cream, though maybe other places; I carefully read the description, but time and running wipes it away), so it was just like eating fruit, good fruit, but still just fruit, and running for fruit doesn't much interest me. Still, I consider this a superb shop and I want more from there eventually.

14 Juillet Tokyo: Carmel Chocolle Prelle

Mixed rain and snow today, but not so much and the ground is not cold enough for ice, so I was able to run, but kept it at around 10 km/h all 11 km, which is fine. I'm going to run up against my budget limit Sunday, so I don't need to run fast. Actually, because coming in from outside as soon as possible seemed more important than shortest distance, I came back the slightly longer way that runs past P. Shima in Kohjimachi, which seems to be more level (which can be good or bad, but definitely good in bad weather). Also, I notice looking at a map that this takes me near a natural baked-goods shop TiMi, which I realize that I should check out, although I'm more interested in French sweets with exotic ingredients, which probably is not their thing.

I went to Marunouchi again for 14 Juillet Tokyo for Carmel Chocolle Prelle (カラメル・ショコラ・ポワール; 480 yen), which is definitely not the French spelling and Google doesn't recognize, so it probably was not thought about very much. Anyway, this is chocolate and caramel mouse with a caramel gelatin coating and pear in the center, as well as a some alcohol of some sort and visible nuts, which I didn't try to identify. There are so many things that could have gone wrong for me here, but actually this was a good well-balanced cake. It didn't "grab me", but the more I considered it, the more I respected it, so I went from rating it good to definitely excellent, which is very nice, since this shop is very accessible and has a large selection.

Les Années Folles [Hinka Rinka counter]: Caramel Chocolat

Did a Ginza run to follow up on (P. Les) Années Folles, since there is a counter in Hinka Rinka in Tokyu Plaza Ginza. I started off a somewhat fast 8 km/h for 2 km, where it's most crowded and there are frequent lights (I stop the chronometer, but I slow down approaching hoping not to, at least warming up). The rest was a slow 9 km/h (that is, not really that much faster), which ended up being about 7 km, since I was able to just barely average above 8.5 km/h coming back. So not my longest run recent run, but my longest stretch of about 9 km/h.



The cake was Caramel Chocolat, which was maybe not a great choice, but not a huge selection at the counter and I don't like cherries in my cake usually, so that that ruled out the other chocolate and the pistachio cakes. The caramel was not terrible (not coffee bitter), but not really the sweet milk caramel that I like. There were pear pieces inside, which were somewhat interesting. The bottom was chocolate mousse/cream;  not sure what the differences is, except you whip chocolate but for my chocolate cream cake, you only whip the cream and then combine it with the prepared chocolate mixture (you need some hot milk first to dissolve the gelatin and then the chocolate in). Under that, was a thin chocolate sponge/biscuit bottom layer, which was good enough but nothing special. I'm going to give it the benefit of the doubt and call it good, but it means that I can go back to just thinking of this shop as good, which was my general impression pre-blog.

My last homemade fancy cake (#7) was "Sphere", though it isn't. As always, I didn't do the decoration part, though I intend to do with chocolate macaron with (homemade) raspberry jam that is supposed to be on top later. This was like chocolate cream cakes (I now know) that I've had before and not thought much of. All I could taste was the chocolate, even though the first two parts are a pistachio macaron base and a cream raspberry layer, which I tasted by themselves and they were excellent and good. If it had been better chocolate, maybe it would have been better cake, but that doesn't really justify the other parts being it beyond structure and color. I actually didn't do a great job on the creme chocolat either, since I had trouble whipping the cream again. I should never try to do less than a full 200 ml, since it never works well for me (this time was half a 100 ml pack). Besides the pistachio base, the chocolate sauce that goes on top is excellent, glacage chocolat, which used the same cheap grocery store chocolate (although also an equal amount compound chocolate for coating, which I got from baking supply store Cuoca).

I might skip doing the whole next cake, "Soleil", which is another fruit (mixed ) in white chocolate, so too much like the orange cake I did and never posted a picture of (what a monster that was, but the Bavarian hazelnut part was good). I do want to try the biscuit dacquoise orange base, although I'm not sure that I'll bother with the orange, since I need half a grated orange peal (if I was making 25 of them) and I don't have the best grater for that.