Éclat des Jours, Tarte aux Fruits

While I was visiting Éclat des Jours for a cake for a cake-off, I also got a new cake for their previous cake-off win. My choice was between a tart and a glass dessert, so I went with the latter, even though it obviously wasn't a great back for me. Specifically, I got the Tarte aux Fruits. It's not the first time I've had this kind of tart. The good point is it features various kinds of small fruits, all high quality. The bad point is that's about all there is to it and I'm not sure a connoisseur of fruits. Still it was good. 

Cake-off: Très Calme's Pistache Apricot over Éclat des Jours' Rhum Raisin

Last Saturday, I got cakes for a cake-off. Due to leg problems, I went by bicycle, which doesn't seem to mind. I was looking at a fifth-round for two shops with 3 wins to only 1 loss. The first was Rhum Raisin from Éclat des Jours and the second was the Pistache Apricot from Très Calme (which also has a great Kouign Amann, if you like fairly solid ones versus more puffed up ones, which I do). It's kind of obvious what the winner is, based on my over preferences, and yet somehow the uniqueness of Rhum Raisin among my great cakes has enabled it to be in a high bracket. The need for it is less now that I have a Baba on my list, but it still has merit, I think, though I'm giving the win toe Pistache Apricot because I like pistachio cream a lot, which is well balanced, and this is a nicely solid cake as well.

Cake-off: Éclat des Jours's Cheminée over Lenôtre's Concerto

For a cake-off, started off with a trip out to Éclat des Jours to get the Cheminée. This had two losses to 1 win, so it was held back a year and this was only a fourth-round. I started running (or doing squats, if stuck at a light) and walking in 1 min and 1 min intervals, but saw that wasn't going to make it much farther than other trips, so I switched to 1 min to 2 min after 10 sets and then 1 min to 3 min after another 10 sets. So I could do 30 1 min intervals, which was more than recent, but still not clearly an improvement. For the trip back to Ginza Mitsukoshi to get Lenôtre's Concerto, I walked and then took the train back for lunch, after which I did the cake-off.

Since these are both weaker cakes among the great cakes, it was a less exciting but still nice cake. Both of these are chocolate, but Cheminée has raspberry, as the picture suggests. Actually, I had doubts about it last time, but I wasn't so worried about it this time. The Concerto is mostly similar to many of my favorite mousse cakes from JPH, but the texture wasn't quite working for me, which could be partially my fault, as how one eats a cake has an effect on the texture. I have to go with what I taste, though, and I'm back to thinking that Cheminée  might be my favorite raspberry chocolate cake and deserves the win, whereas I'm having doubts about Concerto, so I'll need to review it carefully next time.

Cake-off: Frédéric Cassel's Breteuil over Éclat des Jours' Baked Cheesecake

Sunday, I did the most recent cake-off, I did my second 5th round of the again, pitting two undefeated cakes against each other. The primary target was Breteuil from Frédéric Cassel, because it is a seasonal cake, whereas Éclat des Jours' Baked Cheesecake has been available year-round for as long as I've known about it. Both are perfect cakes, and it certainly wasn't clear eating which I would choose even halfway through them, but I decided to go with the pistachio wonder that is Breteuil, just based on person preference, but it wouldn't have been shocking to choose the cheesecake, which remains the best I know. Rough to have to wait another year to have either again, but there are a lot of shops out there and even a lot of great cakes to have again in Tokyo. 

This catches me up, as I did have time (or cake slots) for more during long workdays and short shop hours for Monday through Wednesday. Hoping for something Thursday, but my left side hasn't been in much shape for running, though I got my watch battery changed Monday (when I didn't work quite so late) and did intervals Tuesday quite late, despite being cold and windy for walking between runs outside.

Cake-off: Viron's Gateau Chocolat over Éclat des Jours' Tartelette Mûre

Took off Thursday morning and did a run for cake-off cakes, or at least for the first one, Éclat des Jours' Tartelette Mûre. It seemed early when I started, so I took a longer route, but I paused enough and I'm slow enough that I wouldn't have been early if I had taken the shortest route. I decided to take the train back in two stages, stopping at the Marunouchi Viron to get their Gateau Chocolat. They don't have the selection of the Shibuya shop, but they have the basics.

These cakes are great in being top of their class in significant classes: classic baked chocolate cake and a custard and cream fruit tartlet. This time, I have to go with the chocolate, which is simple (in being uniform except for a little powered sugar on top) and delicious. This was a fourth round for two cakes with two wins and one loss, so the chocolate cake will get a round again next year but the tart can sit out a year. One more cake-off planned for this year.  

Éclat des Jours, Tarte Tatin

Thursday, I took the afternoon off and got back to Éclat des Jours to get a new cake to balance a cake-off win (I'm more behind on ABVT, but they open at 9am and would not likely have anything new by the time I could get there). Managed to get the last of the only cake new to me from there, Tarte Tatin. It was a long run there, as I went around the imperial grounds to the north so I could swing by the Palace Hotel. Going back, I didn't run, to protect my cake, but I did walk as far as Ginza Mitsukoshi, to check out the new cakes at FC, since they aren't posting about this month yet, before catching the train back, so it took more than 3 hours total. I'll confess that I also got high-calorie bread at Éclat des Jours, which I failed to stop myself from eating all of, so it probably wasn't a successful day as far as getting my weight back down. Anyway, the tatin was quite nice. I'm making some allowance for the simplicity and my appreciation of the shop, but it was definitely one of the better tatins that I've had and I enjoyed it, so it should be fair to say that it was excellent.

Cake-off: Éclat des Jours's Baked Cheesecake over Toshi Yoroizuka's Saint Marc

Tried to do a proper long run before Saturday's cake-off, which I did. This was a fourth-round cake-off between the last two available three-time winners. First I ran to Éclat des Jours to get their Baked Cheesecake. Then I mostly ran back to get Toshi Yoroizuka's returned Saint Marc from the Kyoubashi shop. Despite the three wins, I wasn't able to get into the Saint Marc for some reason. I'd think I was off chocolate, but that doesn't seem to be the case generally. It's possible that the recipe changed, but I won't think so. This is only it's first loss, so should get to again next year. If I can, I'll do that early, before it disappears again. No problem with the cheesecake which while not dramatically superior remains by best guess for best cheesecake in Tokyo; every time it wins, I'm kind of surprised, and yet it keeps winning. If it's not broke... 

As implied, recently I speculated that not doing enough exercise before eating lunch and then doing a cake-off might have interfered with my enjoyment, which still seems reasonable. In this case, I ran three times the distance, but I did get a snack from Éclat des Jours that might have nullified this, Chapeau. I got this as a pastry, although the shop person referred to is as "pan", so I was a little afraid about the inside, but this is plenty decadent and definitely more than one person should eat by themselves (not that the price hides this). Can't wait until I can get it again, but not on a cake-off day and maybe I'll try to get it home first.

Éclat des Jours, Chou à la Crème

The goal today was to bring the exceptional shops up to 16 net cakes, though Éclat des Jours has manged 9 cake-off wins, so this was actually number 25. I went with the Chou à la Crème. These are the kind with nuts, though I think they still called just Chou à la Crème, or some close variation. They are half the price of a cake, so I got two to get a fair sample, though it was more than I needed for that. I ran most of the way, being a little lazy, and there being a good number of lights and me setting off reasonably early. Definitely good and certainly comparable to those of other high-quality shops.

Éclat des Jours, Passion Chocolat

The final cake of last Saturday was a second cake from Éclat des Jours, as it comes time to lift the exceptional shops up to 16 net cakes (plus cake-off wins). However, since Éclat des Jours won the cake-off, this was the reward and I still need that next cake, though maybe I'll let the Toshi Yoroizuka go first.

Taking a break from running through the fruit tarts (though there might only be a mixed tart left), I got a cake new to the line-up, as well as me, Passion Chocolat. As one would expect, this is passion fruit and white chocolate, an excellent cake.

 

Cake-off: Éclat des Jours' Tartelette Mûre over Jean-Paul Hévin's Matcha Marron

I got all my weekend cakes in on Saturday, despite the typhoon-induced rain, or maybe because of it. I started off by walking to Éclat des Jours out in Koutou-ku to get Tartelette Mûre for a third-round cake-off and came back by train, stopping at Ginza Mitsukoshi to get Jean-Paul Hévin's Matcha Marron, both one-and-one great cakes.

These are both niche cakes, so hard to compare. In the end, I went with the more distinct, Tartelette Mûre. Matcha Marron is nice and has a distinct combinations of flavors (chestnut, powered green tea, chocolate, and rum) and the great construction of a JPH cake mousse cake, though there are several cakes like that, which I'm thankful full.

Haru: New York Cheesecake

Finally visiting new shops, after stopping at Éclat des Jours and getting a great pastry (sorry, rain, and I'm behind on cakes, so I'm giving up on chronicling pastries, but need more from EdJ), I hit nearby Haru in the same neighborhood. I saw them on television and new cheesecakes were his thing, but I expected more variety than I found. In the end, I just got the New York Cheesecake, which was definitely good, but not really worth going that far away. Still, just good will be enough for a second cake relatively soon from fine shops, though it will probably take at least a year to go through them all (since I'm not going to pause everything else while I do it, and the quite fine shops will need a fourth cake).

Cake-off: Frédéric Cassel's Framboisier over Éclat des Jours' Tartelette Mûre

 Cake-off back on September 10th, I did a second-round cake-off between two new-comers: Éclat des Jours' Tartelette Mûre and Frédéric Cassel's Framboisier. In a way, both are these are pretty basic and there were reasons to give the win to either for this tough matchup. On one hand, this is maybe the only great fruit tart, whereas Framboisier is one of three nearly identify FC cakes, differing only in the fruit. But in the end, I really like the pistachio cream that is the main component of the Framboisier, and there is a lot of it, so it gets the win. If this were based on cost performance, though, I'd probably have to give it to the tart.

Éclat des Jours, Tartelette Fraise

At the same time as getting a cake for a cake-off, following covid rules of minimizing shopping trips, I also topped up Éclat des Jours after their last cake-off win by getting Tartelette Fraise, despite some new tempting non-tart cakes, which I also hope to sample soon. This was the same base as the great blackberry tart, though the top is different, besides the strawberries. Though in general I'm not that into strawberries, I could really respect these ones. I could also respect the shop for using strawberries that were not perfectly red. Definitely excellent. Think I've had all their tarts now except some sort of mixed fruit one. I'll probably hold off on that one to get to new cakes in the lineup. 

Cake-off: Éclat des Jours' Tartelette Mûre over Sadaharu Aoki's Tarte Caramel Salé

August 28, was lucky enough to get the same cake in the afternoon as I got the previous morning and did a cake-off with a cake I've been waiting a long time to reappear from Sadaharu Aoki, their caramel tart: Tarte Caramel Salé. However, as in the cake of many early "greats", this one really live up to my hope. It was certainly good, but it didn't give Éclat des Jours' Tartelette Mûre any kind of fight, though it gave me a chance to confirm that I think it is great.

Éclat des Jours, Tartelette Mûre

Thursday Aug 27 (when I took a half-day off), I went out to Éclat des Jours for a new cake. I don't think they had any new regular cakes, so I continued working through their tart lineup, which is relatively large compared to other shops. Hadn't seen a reason for it until this one, but maybe just because I'm nostalgic for blackberries, I found this to be great, perhaps the best fruit tart I've had so far. Of course, great fruit is not enough and I also appreciate the cream (I think there is custard underneath) and the fairly substantial tart base.  

In blogger news, the edit for labels has finally evolved back to something that looks like the original easy-to-use form. 

Éclat des Jours, Shortcake Verrine

The other cake I got last Saturday (more than a week ago now) was the verrine version of their (strawberry) shortcake, which I had to search online to get an opinion about what it's called, though I was sure of the two words Shortcake Verrine, if not the order. I'll say that I've been slow to appreciate either shortcake or verrine and they still haven't risen to greatness in my opinion, but in this case, the combination works better than been than either on average (or this shop's own shortcake, as far as I can recall), which is probably why this is their signature item, not withstanding that I'm just getting to it now as a 21st cake. 

Their previous only good cake but them under threat from slipping from quite exceptional, but I gave them another cake due to winning a cake-off. This excellent cake doesn't reverse that, but it does raise the bar for the previously under-threat shop it replaces to now prove that it really is better, not just that it had fewer chances to disappoint me. We'll see. 

Éclat des Jours, Tropicot

Last Monday, besides the cake for the cake-off, I got one extra cake from Éclat des Jours, for efficiency in the era of virus, long work hours, and short store hours: Tropicot. This has been around for a relatively long time, though not as far back as the first visit. It's a mango, passion fruit, and banana tart, with some shredded coconut. I knew it wasn't really my thing, but I was running out of choices as a 20th cake, but it was their turn or a new cake as one of the quite exceptional shops, at least until this one, which was only good. Betting cakes from here and with tropical fruit coming up, so I didn't give up on either. For some reason, blogger has gone back to the old interface, now that I've figured out the new one. There's probably some way to toggle between them.

I realize, I should really get some pictures of things other than cakes, because there are actually a couple people besides me that read this blog. I'll see if I can come up with at least some shops or pictures of the returned crowds, with more masks than typically this time of year (it's getting too hot for my surgical masks, which I already don't run or bicycle with, but I have other options).

Cake-off: Éclat des Jours' Rhum Raisin over Dalloyau's Croquant Fraise

Monday, I did a cake-off with what I could get together on a Monday afternoon. I first picked up Éclat des Jours' Rhum Raison on the way back from the airport. I was thinking that I could get a cake from BE, but they were closed down for walk-in cake for weekdays (which they had announced and I forgot), so I ended up cruising south in the late afternoon searching for a matching cake. I had to try two more shops, but found Croquant Fraise at the Jiyuugaoka Dalloyau. This was for a 4th-round cake-off for two wins to one loss. However, as it happens, these are both rather weak entries to the great list, or at least the Rhum Raisin failed to impress me last time as deserving to be among the greats, so it needed recognition this time to stay. It got it: I appreciated its simplicity and how filled a niche. The Croquant Fraise also fills a niche, being an excellent balance of tastes and textures, except I should remove the croquant part as early as possible, because it tends to soak up moisture too quickly as take-out. I actually had more trouble with that the previous time (now I remember), but the Rhum Raisin has the edge regardless. I maintain my respect for both these cakes. 

Éclat des Jours: Shortcake

Went in the rain by bicycle to Éclat des Jours. I could have used a little warmer clothes, but was fine. I went early for the selection, but decided on a standard cake that I had been avoiding, their Shortcake. This cake is on the top row with the cream puffs and is only 400 yen before tax (not that other cakes are that expensive), so it's getting special treatment, maybe as a staple of Japanese cake shops. Anyway, though shortcake can be among the most expensive cakes, due to using premium fruits, this cake was trying for that. Certainly, the strawberry seemed ordinary, which is fine. It was still a good cake and I'm happy to be able to enjoy it.

Only one more of the accessible (i.e., not Ryoco) quite exceptional shops needs a cake, Toshi Yoroizuka, though new priority cakes should become available next week, so I might not get to it for a couple weeks, though I don't know yet what I'll do Saturday. I'm actually hoping Sadaharu Aoki premiers the next season of cakes early. Even with the above bicycling (1.5 hours), I went out in the evening again by bicycle down to the Ebisu area and made use of a bike parking area for the first time and ran (or tried to run) the local loops. Was able to do the revised Ebisu-Nishi loop clockwise this time and finished confirming the Ebisu-Minami and Ebisu 1 loops, failed on the Ebisu 4 loop. I hope to at least finished off the Ebisu-Nishi loop Friday before so trying the next loop in order, the revised Daita-... loop, Saturday.

Éclat des Jours, Simoné

Made my second attempt on the Daita-... loop and got about a third of the way before I failed. I needed to go straight, squeezing past the parked van, even though the main road turned. This is the second time that I mistook when to enter a back alley. While verifying what I should do, I stopped at Main Mano and got their Pain au Chocolat. I'll say it was excellent, but note that the chocolate was what I more typically find in Pain au Chocolat, and not my favorite. On the other hand, the sliced almonds are a significant positive feature.

I ran most of the way home and felt that a 2+ hour run was enough. After a half-lunch, I went by bicycle to Éclat des Jours again, in response to their cake-off win, and got a new cake, Simoné, which is pistachio mousseline on a strawberry crust with fresh raspberries on top. A definitely excellent cake. I do have a complaint: I gave them an insulated bag to put the cake in, and they included their own bag anyway. (I protects the box, but really, does it need it?)