Il Pleut sur la Seine: Polonaise

Finally got to Il Pleut sur la Seine again after upgrading it to the superb cake shop list to replace Abricotier. Today's cake brings me up to 5 cakes reviewed for here (so still 2 more to catch up). It was a slow after yesterday's long run following a training run the day before that. So I did not make any of the lights through Omotesando (I did stretches while I waited). I'm consider altering my path going that way on slow days to try to at least line up with a pedestrian bridge crossing the street between Omotesando Station and Harajuku Station. There and back, about 5 km each, were both at exactly the same speed, close to 9 km/h.

The "cake" for today is Polonaise, which is a brioche Polonaise, so perhaps actually a pastry, but I think the meringue is enough to push it over into the cake category, at least for me, especially after allowing Fondant Choc
olat yesterday. This is a brioche (which is a sweet bread) spiked with kirsch, filled with candied fruit (so it tasted like fruit cake), with a little bit of custard at the center and a lot of meringue (more than 1 cm thick) covering it, with sliced almonds. It sounds like a mess and not something I would be into, maybe, and actually it did become messy because my eating strategy was to cut out radial wedges, which obviously imbalances it, and it tastes like a baba, which I'm not excited about, but it all works well together and it was excellent.

Paris S'éveille: Fondant Chocolat

Yesterday, I had to work late, so I did a cake-shop-less training run. This time, it was an actual training routine, not just a person challenge: I ran slow (9 km/h) about 1.5 km then about as fast as I could for 1 km (>13.5 km/h), then walked for about 3 minutes and ran as fast as I could again for 1 km (just short of 13.0 km/h). Then, without a break, I jogged at the slow speed again for about 7.5 km. This is supposed to train the body to burn fat more efficiently, which is important for long-distance running because you'll run out of stored sugar if your body can't burn fat at your running speed (it can't generally burn fat when you run too fast, but what counts as too fast depends on training). It was a good run: I did the speed part at the Gaien course and then sort of followed the green stop signals, intending to do a lap around Akasaka Palace but instead doing a lap around Aoyama Cemetery, which is nice on the east side, not so much on the south side, and then just sort of isolated on the west side. As a substitute for fresh cake, I made canelé again. Now that I have the recipe right for my molds and oven, I varied it by using brown sugar (and accidentally a little too much rum), but I think I should stick with regular granular sugar, though it does not matter much except for the color. My next variation will be to lower the temperature and cook them longer, as the middle is very soft, which I like, but I'd like to see what my other options are.

Today, I could leave work on time, so I could go down to Paris S'éveille as planned (Monday's planned shop is closed today, so I'm shifting that to Wednesday, if nothing comes up). I couldn't speed through Omotesando so well this time, though I did make one difficult light, as I was still tired. But I could do the about 11 km each-way run at 10 km/h down and 9 km/h back without pushing too hard in general, so it was okay. I worked on a smoother pace so I don't wear out my hip from the impact on long runs, like I did in my recent failed 50 km attempt. I chose Fondant Chocolat (450 yen), which borders on being a baked good/pastry, but I know it's good and the unblogged "cake" alternative was a fruit tart that I'm not optimistic about (if/when I eventually get it, I should eat in or at least eat it in the neighboring park area, as it definitely doesn't look like it would travel well). I ran it home and microwaved it 20 seconds, as recommended. The inside is essentially thick chocolate sauce/cream, with only a relatively thin outside baked layer. It is great and I would not be afraid to pair it against other great chocolate cakes.

Limevert: Fromage Citron

I planned cycling today when I was thinking that I would run longer on Saturday and would need the rest in order to run again on Monday, which is still somewhat true. It certainly will keep me from being worried about the weekday runs and I'm going to try again to do a 40+ km run next weekend, so it doesn't hurt to keep things lighter this weekend. Still, I planned longer (30+ km), and got more lost, making it even long, because I was cycling.

First I went up to Aigre-Douce again, just because I missed seeing or at least remembering their cake that was planned as the primary in the next cake-off (I found it this time). Then I continued along Mejiro Avenue to Yamanote Avenue and turned off onto Honan Avenue, which was correct, but

turned too early from there, though at least was going south. I eventually got to Limevert, where I got the Fromage Citron (540 yen), chosen somewhat arbitrarily from things I haven't had, but it was definitely excellent. It's cheesecake, of course, with rare cheesecake on top (mousse) accented with lemon and a thin solid layer of baked cheesecake on the bottom with another layer of citrus (the card only mentioned lemon, but the color was different here and not as sour, but it could have been lemon too). Note sure whether the fruit helped or hurt it, but I'd be curious to have it without.

Cake-off: "Le Suprême" over "Miroir Cassis"

Saturday, I did a two-part run, first up to Aigre-Douce to get Miroir Cassis, that I have an ambiguous "great" report on, so I wanted to resolve that. I had forgotten how poorly their bags fix their boxes, so that it's impossible to keep them level. To make matters worse, they put cool packs both inside and outside the box, both on the back, so it would take a pretty well fitted bag to keep it from flipping over. Needless to say, it was pretty banged up from trip home, which was longer than necessary. Next time (I'm planning to go back Thursday), I'm taking a route that sticks to main (straight and relatively level) and bring a good back that I can repack in, as needed. This was about 11 km, with slightly more of that 10 km/h versus 9 km/h.

The second run was to Paris S'éveille for Le Suprême. This has blueberry and chocolate, so I wasn't sure what to match it with anyway, which was why I paired it up with Miroir Cassis, which is at least fruit. This is a mousse cake, though, and they advised me to get it home within 1 hour, which running wasn't going to accomplish to I used the train. At least I saved myself the cost of the sports drink that I would have needed to run back, though the front chocolate sheet stuck to the box and broke when I pried it loose. I varied my running route just because I knew I would cycle the next day and most of my route would otherwise be the same as Thurday's, so that added about another kilometer, to make it about 12 km at 10 km/h.

It was a pretty lopsided contest. My original estimation that Miroir Cassis was not great, and I'm not sure that it even qualifies as excellent, though the texture is good, I appreciate the mini macarons, and the fruit taste is nice. But Le Suprême is rich and blue berries provides an uncommon accent. So, in recognition, I also need to get back to Paris S'éveille.

I should also mention that Friday I tried Henri le Roux's Noir Signature tablette bar/tablet, which was definitely excellent, though I'm comparing to months-old imported chocolate from the grocery. I haven't had other chocolatier tablette chocolate for quite awhile.

Rue de Passy: Noble

Did a workday run down to Rue de Passy for the first time and got there in time, no problem, other than turning one street too soon (so 100 m more than necessary). It's about 8 km each way and the first half out was around 11 km/h, but I was just on the 10 km/h side overall for going. I was able especially to maintain a high speed for the couple kilometers along Aoyama Avenue, which is hard with the crowds but good for making the lights, which are the other thing besides the crowds that make this potentially the slow part of the trip that could make me late. Running fast there is also a good strategy for endurance/fat burning: warm up a couple kilometers, go fast for a couple kilometers, and then go slow and long for several kilometers. Coming back, I was almost exactly 9 km/h, but it felt more uphill.

The cake was Noble (573 yen), which is a dense chocolate cake. I was happy with this cake. It was definitely good and I like chocolate, though there was nothing to strongly distinguish it, but it still confirms this shop as quite good. I was not disappointed.

DelRey: Hazelnuts Chocolat

Ran over to the Ginza Mitsukoshi to catch DelRey's last day there and got the Hazelnuts Chocolat (756 yen). The run was fine, as far as I can remember, averaging 9 km/h over about 11 km, despite my walking maybe 1 km of that into and out of Ginza in the subway tunnels to avoid lights. The cake was kind of a tough one to rate, as I wanted to like it and it was high quality, but it was very mild and soft, whereas I'm more into intense and crunchy. Still, in the end, it was something I'd want to be able to make, so I'm going it excellent, so I should get back there before too long.

Today actually I was back just to see whether Delrey's replacement had any cake on offer. They didn't, so I tried the Almond Croissant (405 yen) from Dominique Ansel. It was a typical almond paste calorie bomb and definitely good, but did not stand out other than being maybe larger than average (though they are often pretty large). This was about 1 km more than yesterday and 10 km/h, even with the same walking, though I got a little turned around at some points, so there is a distance error of a couple blocks.

Jean-Paul Hévin: Verrine Chocolat Apricot & Verrine Truffle Blanche

Was at Isetan Monday afternoon (taking a half-day off) and decided to visit Jean-Paul Hévin and tried the other two verrines, Verrine Chocolat Apricot and Verrine Truffle Blanche. The first also has a layer of pistachio cream and the bottom biscuit has sansho, which is unusual. The other one obviously has truffle besides chocolate (it's a chocolate shop, so always expect chocolate). These are both definitely good, but I'm sticking with my original opinion that this is a bad substitute for cake. Actually, the biscuit on the bottom sort of ruins the smoothness of the rest (from the texture, not the taste), so my best strategy going forward, I think, is to try to avoid it until the end, as the chocolate apricot one was maybe excellent as just gelatin and mousse.

In the evening, I wanted to check at Yoshinori Asami, just to see if they had the Van Dyke (which, as expected from their website, they did not) and I could get there before the closed. Despite getting lost and taking a long way, I did make it (someone else was before me, or maybe they would have closed, but they didn't seem impatient to get rid of us). The selection is not really very special, although sometimes what looks simple and basic is quite good. I had already had verrine, so I just got a canele, which was excellent (and a lot bigger than the ones I make at home). Total, the running was about 15 km of running averaging 10 km/h.

Ginza West (Ginza branch): Mango Short Cake

No running Sunday, although Friday's run had that covered, somewhat. In the afternoon, I went to Ginza West, the main shop in Ginza, which I had been meaning to do after Sweet Sonobe mentioned it (not that I haven't been by at least the Aoyama one many times). It's very old fashioned, including the cake and receipt, which does not explain anything but the final price per person. I think the Mango Short Cake was 800 yen plus. I also got a plate with some sort of unbaked chocolate cake/fondant and ice cream in chocolate sauce with some whipped cream, but I can't recall the name now, other than having the word chocolate in it, and it's not on their online menu (again, old fashioned, and Tabelog doesn't want to transmit information to me). The picture is perhaps more useful. With drinks, they both cake out to 1512 yen each, even though the individual prices were a few hundred yen different.

The mango short cake was definitely good, in that the mango fruit was good and the sponge seemed good quality, though not my thing. I was even less into the chocolate whatever this is. It's vaguely brownie like but completely soft. I'm still called it good, I guess, but I'm less certain.

Yu Sasage: Fraisier Pistache

Did a long run, with research and a 7th cake from an excellent shop. The run was okay, at least no problems and most of the navigation went well where expected and no worse than expected where not. Kept a steady speed of 9 km/h over all three legs totaling about 32 km: To Bigarreaux, where I got a great Pain au Raisin (300 yen), very buttery (or maybe it used a lot of egg yoke, as it was very rich);

then to Yu Sasage, and finally home. I was worried for the heat, as it was 25+ deg Celsius but was dressed for it and drank a lot. The cake was definitely good, with the pistachio filling being fairly solid, which was good for the long trip. The fruit dominated, though, and while not bad, were not exciting (you need pretty firm strawberries, but really sweet ones would be very too ripe, perhaps.

Éclat des Jours: Cheminée

My big challenge for midweek was Thursday. After work, I ran to Éclat des Jours, which is 10+ km and requires going through the busy east Tokyo Station area, where there are also a lot of stoplights for major cross streets, so it was 9 km/h going and returning (probably, going was close to 10 km/h, but I missed hitting the "lap" button). It's not too crowded most of the way, though, and it's very easy to navigate, which is good because the Chiminée (540 yen? They gave me the wrong receipt), if "n" is the missing letter in what I actually wrote down when there, was great. It's main feature is raspberry ganache, I think surrounded by milk chocolate mousse, then raspberry sauce and a macaron on top. It's just sophisticated enough but covers the basics (getting the balance right between raspberry and chocolate is nontrivial). Also, it traveled 10+ km and still looks good, so it was well constructed and well packed.

Friday, I just did a little running for grocery shopping and got Flute Ancienne from Paul, which was way more calories than any cake (at least with butter), which I'll try to use up in a 30 km run tomorrow. It was excellent bread.

Sadaharu Aoki: Saint Marc

As planned, I visited the Marunouchi Sadaharu Aoki for their exclusive Saint Marc (640 yen). This is almond biscuit top and bottom, along with a caramelized layer on top, with layers of vanilla cream and chocolate cream. As usual with Sadaharu Aoki, this is big and well constructed. I'm going to say that this was excellent, although I am some bias toward them, and toward this cake, which my I took this over, for example, green tea and azuki bean cake (though I've also seen an éclair I haven't had recently).

I'm hoping to make a long fast run tomorrow, so I took it somewhat easier today, 10 km/h out and 9 km/h by a somewhat short route of about 5 km each way.

Jean-Paul Hévin, Verrine Chocolat Pamplemousse,

Yesterday, as planned, I did a cakeless run. I went to Midtown to check what Toshi Yoroizuka had, since I'm interesting in their TM (Tokyo Midtown) Noir and I don't expect to see it elsewhere, at least with that name. No luck yet, but I saw that Sadaharu Aoki had a supposedly exclusive cake (Zen, which I've had), so it reminded me that I need to check out other options, since I plan to get a cake from them soon. The run was about 4 km at 11 km/h and 3 km at 10 km/h, which is faster than lately.

Today, I went to Isetan, also as planned, and got the Verrine Chocolat Pamplemousse for 729 yen. I liked the caramel and figs on top a lot and the chocolate mousse, but the grapefruit gelatin did not do much for me, either separately or mixed with other layers. Overall it was definitely good, so probably I'll sample at least one more of these this month, but it's still not cake and it's okay if I don't get to them all.

For the run, I went to the Marunouchi Sadaharu Aoki, where they had the cake I decided that I want most from Sadaharu Aoki, so it looks like I'll be going back there tomorrow rather than buying from Isetan again. The run was again 11 km/h our and 10 km/h, this time about 5 km each way.

Cake-off: Rue de Passy "Opera Pistache" over Fraoula "Angers St Laud"

This time my side trip to Fraoula looking for "Angers St Laud" paid off. My original plan in looking for it was to see it through the window and go on to get the second cake, picking this one up on the way back, but the the usual counter person spotted me and pointed to the cake, so I had to come in and buy it, especially since they said that they had specifically made it because I had been asking about it (the patisserie was also out front). They are very friendly and I'm very recognizable, but also not that many people probably come asking about a specific cake and then stalk them over the next few months looking for it. I decided to take it home first rather than carry it 13 km, most of that with a second cake. Actually, I was faster going home, 10 km/h versus 9 km/h, both 4+ km.

I was equally successful for my first choice of a match for this, as Rue de Passy still had their Pistache Opera. This time I was faster going (10 km/h) than coming back (9 km/h), both 8+ km, which is reasonable for a second run where I'm not trying to make a particular pace, but rather trying not to over do it. Just watched a show on two "talents" trying to do sub 3.5 marathons, which requires a 12+ km/h average speed. Neither made it, though each was close in his way. I'm just not enough of an athlete, but at my speeds, I never have trouble with specifically muscle pain stopping me, like they did, so I'm not sure that I really need more training. Instead, I'll try to use my capacity to get where I want to go without causing any tendon or joint failures, or compromising my immune system.

These were both early evaluations of shops I've mostly moved on from (though Fraoula has great pastries). This Angers St Laud is a little different from the one two years ago. On the plus side, it has a great pistachio flavor and is well complimented by the almonds and biscuit. On the downside, it has somewhat gelatinous parts that slide off each other (you can see the white top and green bottom) when you cut into them. I still think it's excellent, but I have a hard time saying that it's great. In contrast, the Pistache Opera is a standard layered cake of biscuit and thick praliné/ganache, so in that way it's not exciting, but I like the taste and like the structure of this type of cake, so maybe those are why I am choosing it over Fraoula, at least today.

So I guess Yu Sasage is for next Saturday. In the meantime, I need a shopping run or research run with no cake to balance out the extra cake today. I also want to get to JPH for a Verrine this week, since they only have these and summer and classify them as cake; I don't consider them cake or like them much, but I should give them another chance while I have the chance: they have three varieties per month for 4 months, so they would keep me busy if it turns out that they are worth trying. Also, I want to work in a new shop and now I owe both Sadaharu Aoki and Rue de Passy another sampling, though I definitely won't get to the later this week. Not sure whether I'll take a rest tomorrow (probably not, as I'm not that tired or sore) or whether I'll need a rest Friday before my Saturday run (again, greed/obsession will probably prevent that). I'll probably keep the Saturday run to only 30 km, which is easily done but I'd like to stop by some other shops on the way for research purposes, though I'll also need a snack for that long a run, as Yu Sasage doesn't have eat-in space to eat my cake there and I'd rather avoid eating outdoors.

Cake-off: Sadaharu Aoki "Cheese Cake Citronné" over Dalloyau "Fromage Cru"

Started off by going to Aigre-Douce, so naturally I got a little lost trying to take a shortcut. They still did not have Fraise Framboise, but they still had Tarte au Caramel Salé. Also, they had Miroir Cassis, which I'm not sure whether it's great, so I've decided I should try it again, especially since I can put it in a cake-off with a hard to match blueberry chocolate cake.

Then I did the same thing (getting lost on back streets) trying to go to Ikebukuro Station, but it's not far. I checked out both Tobu and Seibu and found at least a couple that I could imagine visiting (or have visited in the past but not blogged), but nothing high in priority and the same can be said of the Ginza area, which I prefer. I was disappointed, though that they did not have what I came for at the Dalloyau, which was the Fromage Cru (they had about 6 other types of cakes).

As I result, I headed back without cake, at least as far as Isetan, where I got Cheese Cake Citronné. This was about 12 km that I can figure out at about 9 km/h.

After a rest, I headed out to Ginza to get the Fromage Cru, going not a very direct way and using more tunnels and bridges than normal and I stopped for groceries on the way back. It was another 9 km at 9 km/h.

As my heading shows, I chose the Sadaharu Aoki over the Dalloyau, although I don't think I've changed my mind about either. The Fromage Cru is just pure, creamy rare cheesecake, but I appreciate the nuances of citrus and hazelnut crust of the Cheese Cake Citronné.

[Friday] Dalloyau: Tarte Citron Yuzu

Decided that I failed to verify Fromage Cru for Saturday at Dalloyau and also I wanted to get something new from there, so I got the Tarte Citron Yuzu (only other fresh cake option left now is Opera, I image at least until the end of the month). This is an orange flavor tart with a mixture of lemon and yuzu, or something like that. It seemed a good realization of the standard lemon tart, so I'll say it was excellent. The running was 10+ km at about 10 km/h on the way out and 9 km/h back, which is typical for this week, as I try to get back into the habit of running after injury (in the sense of a persistent pain) and then illness

.

Il Pleut sur la Seine: Chiboust Poire

Was feeling tired today, though less so (relative to other return runs) on the way back, so it all came about to about 9 km/h for around 10 km total. I am looking particularly at the excellent shops that I've only had three cakes from to see whether any are candidates as new potentially quite excellent shops. It could still wash out later, but I got another great cake, so Il Pleut sur la Seine gets promoted.

The cake was a Chiboust Poire (670 yen). I like a good chiboust, which not everyone makes. This shop seems to do best with the standards, probably related to them having their own school. Eventually I should compare this with other chibousts that I've said are great and see really stands out, but for now I'm just happy to have something different and something great. Basically, the base is like a pear tart, and then you have the eggy part and a top hard
caramelized layer.

I also received a Galette Noir, which was excellent, as far as I can tell from just one cookie.

D-style Tokyo: Pistache Pistache

Tried out D-style Tokyo up by Wasada University. It's tiny as far as a cake shop, but has a little tea salon that had several people, which was surprising. I got a little lost getting there and did a complete loop when trying to come back, so I'm guessing at distances. Still, I was around 11 km/h for going about 3+ km and am assuming 9 km/h coming back, which makes it 4+ km, after which I had another 1 km at 10 km/h for regular meal shopping.

I got the Pistache Pistache (440 yen). This is tiny, which I don't mind if the price is at least somewhat reduced, but this pistachio cake was too gelatinous and didn't have any flavor to recommend it, so I'm giving it the benefit of the doubt saying it is ok, since maybe some people like gelatinous nut cakes. Not me. I think I'll take a rest from cake tomorrow, from disappointment, and save up for a cake-off with presumably great cake.

Heritage: Chocolat Framboise

Finally ran again, and everything seems okay. Went up to Heritage, as I'm visiting the better excellent shops to see which I should promote to quite excellent. I tried to keep it slow, despite the early closing, but still did the 3+ km in a little above 10 km/h. I did the 4 km back slower, as I swung past D-Style Tokyo for the first time (tiny shop), which I'm thinking of go to tomorrow.

The cake was Chocolat Framboise (600 yen), which was their most expensive, though not by much. It was definitely good, balancing the raspberry and chocolate well. They were pine nut size, so I assume that they were pine nuts, though I just found a couple and am not sure what pine nuts taste like anyway, so I'm not sure. Still, not special enough to promote it, so I'll keep looking. Sorry, the photo cake out a little blurry.

Jean-Paul Hévin: Éclair Caramel Fleur de Sel

No running, but my cough is less wet, so I'll at least try some stretches later. Still, it's the end of the holidays, so I got the other new seasonal cake from Jean-Paul Hévin for this month, Éclair Caramel Fleur de Sel (661 yen), which is as the name implies. This was excellent, despite being an éclair, so I'm warming to this type of dessert, though still not my favorite cake-type treat.

Raika: Mille-Feuille

Was in the Shinjuku Station area and needed a rest, so went to Raika, which Sweet Sonobe's recent post (and now there's been another) pointed out I'd been overlooking. We got their two mille-feuille, one strawberry and one general fruits. They were both definitely good, but the more traditional strawberry was excellent.

Saturday, we were off around Shinbashi Station and needed a cold drink, so I ended up with Starbucks New York Cheesecake which was good but immediately forgettable beyond not being bad.

Viron: Paris-Brest

Not well enough to run, but I kept a reservation at Viron today for lunch. As usual, the food was excellent. For desert, they had Paris-Brest, which they said they only make twice a month and it was what they were pushing, in that they brought the whole thing around on a platter for us to see. We got the first slice, I think, and it was a huge slice (for 1500 yen). This was quite different from the little individuals I've had called Paris-Brest and I can't remember what the slice from La Salon Jacques Borie was like (I was too shy to take a picture of it). Here, the balance between pastry and filling was much more to my liking than an éclair (that is, more filling), even though really there were 6 layers, as the top and bottom both had distinct inside and outside crusts with the praliné cream between, and there was also an small inner tube filled with custard, which I had not expected. Nuts were very large pieces, maybe halves. It made a strong impression, so I'm calling it great.

Also, the Baba au Rhum is still excellent.

Henri Charpentier: Sachertorte

Well, I avoided them for two years, but illness and cake lust drove me to finally go to Henri Charpentier, which was most convenient at Isetan. My avoidance was because they generally have soft boring cakes, which I bypassed this time by taking the Sachertorte (540 yen), which is a relative heavy cake, even there. And the balance with the apricot and sweetness (the chocolate probably matters, but is relatively weak, which is what I would expect) means it was unexpectedly excellent, so I can't dismiss them as uninteresting, though I've never thought they were incompetent, so it's not a shock. On my personal list, they now come on the newly arranged "Quite good" list, which is the bottom few dozen of the top several dozen Tokyo cake shops, most of which I've only sampled from a two or three times. Only one cake means I should get back there and try something else sometime relatively soon.

I haven't had any other fresh cake lately, but I got some Mohave Raisin and Walnut Brod from Andersen, which was excellent toasted and buttered (so it's not really fair to compare it to untoasted and buttered bread), and Cinnamon from Hediard, which is very heavy on the walnuts and good, but not better than my modest expectations, both again via Isetan, which is about as far as I'm up for currently.