Cake-off: L'Abricotier's Le Piemont over Noix de Beurre's Fraise Chantilly

Saturday, I did a 4th-round cake-off between two cakes with one win to two losses each. Getting L'Abricotier's Le Piemont involved running 25 minutes in intervals of 1 minute and running the rest. My leg is not really getting better, but I'm getting more serious about identifying where needs stretching. The root is probably still a teenage back injury and resurface a couple decades ago, though it also shows up along the same place as a more recent lateral problem which required a lot of stretching, so I'm not giving up. They didn't have a lot of the Le Piemont compared to others even a little after opening, so maybe they are troublesome or not so popular, despite being an old standard. The Fraise Chantilly from Noix de Beurre required standing in line for an hour, which wasn't fun, but not as bad as I thought when I first saw the line. Not sure why this place is always like this. Despite the similar histories, it wasn't very close between the cakes, as I wasn't finding the merit in keeping the Fraise Chantilly in the lineup. I like whipped cream plenty and more of that and less sponge cake than a typical Japanese "shortcake" is fine with me, but I'm okay without it. I'm in new territory here, as I gave it a pass last time, but not the time before. Not sure what I'll do when that happens in the 5th round, if it ever does, but I'm deciding now that it's okay to cut it whereas my previous idea only if the two doubts occur in a row. I'll mention that I previously had my doubts about the Le Piemont, so these two cakes were well matched in that respect too, though I don't check that before the cake-off.  

Noix de Beurre, Cheesecake

The other Noix de Beurre cake-for-two from three weekends back was the the Cheesecake, which was good, but plain, which is sort of their thing: the basic cakes with no surprises.

Noix de Beurre, Peach Tart

At Isetan, bought cake for two. I didn't have anything particular I needed, so I didn't choose. The main attraction was the seasonal Peach Tart, which is a whole peach compote (with honey and lemon) with custard inside on a tart base. It's certainly good. Not sure how focused the picture is, but other online pictures look similar, so it might just be the glossiness of the peach rather than the focus on the plastic. 

Noix de Beurre, Strawberry Tartelette

Looking for a shop to replace Juliet 14 in the exceptional shop list, last Sunday I got the Strawberry Tartelette from Noix de Beurre at Isetan. I have to say, people in that line didn't really have the concepts of pandemic and social distancing down as well as I would have liked. Noix de Beurre is the house brand and they make basic things from basic ingredients, so I shouldn't be surprised that this was a basic tart, though good.  Note that I was catching up from the previous week, as I also did a cake-off the same day (with the expectation that the next week would involve cake that I would like, due to long work hours and short shop hours).

Noix de Beurre: Meringue Chantilly

Today was no running due to having gotten a flu shot, so to reward myself for not running when I shouldn't (or really, because it was somewhere I could go with minimal effort), I visited another quite fine shop which I've had just one great cake from, Noix de Beurre, at Isetan. This time I got Meringue Chantilly, which is exactly what the name says and it looks like: meringue with whipped cream. The center meringue is actually dense (and took some work to get through, but the outside part is light enough as a guide). It's good (and cheap) but not enough to convince me that this shop needs to be promoted. I've got room to promote two shops, and one might be Coffee Parlor Hill Top (when and if they reopen in December), but there's a three-way tie even after that.

Cake-off: L'Abricotier's Montelimar over Noix de Beurre's Fraise Chantilly

Walked as far as L'Abricotier's, then to nearest JR Station, then Shinjuku Stn. to Isetan, and then home, which was a lot, and certainly more than other controlled walks, but seemed reasonable, so better than previous walking tests. I was there to get Montelimar for a third-round cake-off of cakes that were one and one. It's opponent was Noix de Beurre's Fraise Chantilly, which is why I went to Isetan. The wait was less than 30 minutes there, which was less than I feared, given the lines from opening time (not sure when or why this started). I questioned last time whether the Fraise Chantilly belong among the greats, but when you want cream and strawberry and a little sponge cake, this is still my favorite, and it is nice sometimes, so I'm keeping it in. However, I like the hazelnut accented by apricot of Montelimar better. Wish it was a little more solid, but then it would be a different cake.

Noix de Beurre, Waguri Mont-Blanc

Sunday, I got some cake for two from Noix de Beurre, Isetan, the Chantilly Fraise (not pictured, damaged in transportation) and one new one, their Waguri Mont-Blanc. It was definitely good, though I wished that I had used a sharper knife, just to cut through the chestnut paste without crushing the whipped cream underneath. The base is tart-like rather than meringue and there is a large piece (pre-cut into smaller chunks, I think) of chestnut in the center as well. I should look at knifes when I got back to Tokyu Hands to see about a glass jar for pickling.

In the evening, I finally did another one-way neighborhood run, this time as far as the Shibuya--Minami-Aoyama loop, which is ten loops out (not that I start from Loop #1, but I start before my neighbor courses start branching, so it's all proportionate beyond the first few). Not surprisingly, I found flaws in my old course (crossing signal), so I ran an approximation and updated the course for next time, though I don't feel compelled to repeat it before starting on the next set of loops (the 11s out). Took a picture on the way back that works even at night for the neighborhood map of a cafe on the Jinguumae--Kita-Aoyama Central Loop (which is 8 loops out) that seems quite good for cake.

Cake-off: Dalloyau's Croquant Fraise over Noix de Beurre's Fraise Chantilly

Saturday, I was busy, but did a fairly long run trying to verify kilometer marks from the 11th kilometer on my neighborhood map but soon ran into a mistake, so I've spent a long time with Google's automatic route plotter fixing through the 25th kilometer, though not at that time. Instead, I ran over to Shibuya Stn. area and visited all the main cake sources and confirmed that I really don't like running around that neighborhood or really have a great need to. It shouldn't have taken 2 hours, but I did a lot of back roads going the wrong direction (though never very far) and the ones on the west side were all crowded.

Not one to learn much from experience, I spent about 3 hours running to get one cake on Sunday. I wanted Croquant Fraise from Dalloyau for a cake-off and started by looking at Ginza Mitsukoshi, but they don't handle that one, they told me. Then I jogged across town to Shibuya Toukyuu (same as the previous night), where they claimed to be sold out of that cake, despite having a full (small) case of other cakes at around noon, so I'm more likely to believe that they never had any. From there, I went to Jiyugaoka, where the main shop is, with a café, mostly along a different route from usual, since I was going from farther west, but it was not any roads I haven't used going that way before and I had no trouble getting what I wanted. Since they open at 8:30 (though not the café until 11), I should of course have just gone straight there, just I was interested in checking out Ginza Mitsukoshi to see what was there on the weekend, and then it seemed worth a stop in at Shibuya as sort of being on my way to Jiyugaoka (but I wasn't going to swing by Meguro Stn.; if I had failed at Dalloyau, I would have given up and gotten cake elsewhere in Jiyugaoka.

The priority cake in this match up was actually Noix de Beurre's Fraise Chantilly, which had managed to win it's first-round cake-off, but this time I really couldn't recognize what was great about it. It's much like a shortcake, which I'm not that into, so I've been giving it the benefit of the doubt sort of, as the best in it's class, but I think that's gone along far enough. Still, I'll keep it in for the third round and if it doesn't manage to seem great then, I'll bump from consideration. Dalloyau's Croquant Fraise, in contrast, is definitely great. I really can't think of another cake where the main component is custard (vanilla) that I think is great, but this one is great on it's own merits. It's certainly the best of the Dalloyau cakes that I've managed to get in a cake-off (most of their great cakes have been seasonal ones that haven't reappeared in the last year).

While I'm catching up, Monday was a pastry day, so I got my first from The Ritz-Carlton Café and Deli, a Pain au Chocolat. I'll note that it was after  7 pm, so they gave me 25% off (in the end, they forget initially and I wasn't sure whether the discount included pastries, since the sign I saw said cake, but they self-corrected). It's on the small side, but a proper traditional pain au chocolat, and was excellent.

[Tuesday & Wednesday] Viron: Parfum de Rose

Jogged to Viron, which was a huge mistake, for one thing, I've been sick since, but then, probably before that as well so I'm not so confident about cause and effect. No soreness at first, but picked up some hip pain half way there. Was able to keep running, but again, apparently shouldn't have, though I've not feeling sore now again, even if I have what's probably a cold.

The cake, which was in response to Viron winning a cake-off, was Parfum de Rose, which is a fruity (and obviously flowery) mousse dome, so not really my thing. Still it was good. Obviously, it did not travel so well.

The next day, on Wednesday, I got a Madeleine Maman from Noix de Beurre, which was good, but I regret not getting the financier, since my last one wasn't good as I wanted (but better than this).

Noix de Beurre: Mille-feuille

Went to Isetan, thinking I was going to Morozoff, but remembered why this shouldn't be a priority: they don't have fresh cake (I like baked cheesecake, but, like pound cake, it not the same as "fresh/raw" cake, in the Japanese sense). Also, I need to buy a full 1000 yen pie-sized cake, so I'd rather wait until I'm buying for more than just myself, although it is something that having leftovers would be okay, so it's always available as a backup plan when I can't get anywhere else.

Instead, I followed up on getting a different cake from Noix de Beurre, so I made the safe choice and got their Mille-feuille (540 yen), which they don't assemble until you order it. This was excellent as expected as well as being reasonably priced and convenient to obtain, so more evidence that this shop/counter is quite good.

The run was going to the Akasaka Palace course to see whether I could manage 12 km/h. So I lasted all of 8 days before breaking my promise not to run hard when it's 5 deg out. What can I say, running is addictive and makes me do crazy things. But this time I took a day of rest since my long weekend runs, so I'm expecting to be okay. I only know the 1 km and 2 km marks for the course, so it's hard to pace myself. Plus, the slopes are not evenly distributed, so the goal isn't to keep a steady pace, but get head on the first half and not lose too much on the uphill parts in the second half (although there is also some downhill again). Since I wasn't really confident that I could make it, I just tried to run as fast as I thought I could keep up the full 3.3 km, based on how hard I was breathing compared to when I was doing 13 km/h last week. This meant about 4'30'' for the first kilometer, and maybe 4'45'' for the second. In the end, I finished before the target 16'30'', at 15'29'', which is actually above 12.5 km/h, so it's not impossible that I could do 13 km/h some day, but it's not seeming very likely and trying is not a priority.

Just as full disclose, on the "rest day", actually I had to do a couple hours overtime and I got a half of a Baguette Meule (I think) from Le Petit Mec, which was definitely good break, but not my favorite of theirs.

Cake-off: Fraise Chantilly over Bernard

After Monday's fast intervals in cold weather after long weekend runs, I had sinus problems and had to talk yesterday off. Actually, I probably should have taken Monday off, so I need to revise my schedule.

Today though, I was feeling better, so I finally called Toshi Yoroizuka and reserved a Bernard and then went to Isetan (specifically, Noix de Beurre) where I could successfully get their Fraise Chantilly (though they currently also have custard and chocolate versions, so I had to be specific). There was light rain, but I was committed and it wasn't so cold, so I dressed warmly and did an easy 10 km/h jog to Tokyo Midtown, which is not much over 3 km away.

The cakes were as I remembered them, pretty much, and it was a tough choice. In this case, though the Bernard is still composed of things I like, such as chocolate and pistachio, I can only rate it excellent. Not that the Fraise Chantilly was exciting, but as previously, I rate it great for being the best cake of this type I know and I appreciated the clean fresh taste of just lots of cream, a little strawberry, and sponge cake it a sensible design.

Toshi Yoroizuka is still an excellent shop, and I'd like to get to their new Tokyo shop to eat in (not that I can't do that at Tokyo Midtown, just my café dining timing has not matched up and I'd like to see the new shop). And I don't mind having to blog a third cake from Noix de Beurre soon, which is conveniently located.

Noix de beurre

Had business nearby, so in keeping with the season, I got a Financier aux Chocolat for 260. It tastes like a really good thin brownie, although I assume that it has almond in it. This is maybe something I'll try making if using brioche molds for canelé never pans out. (The second batch was just starting to burn at the edges but the centers did not cook enough and they stuck in the molds. I think there was not enough egg and my timing and maybe the amount of buttering of the molds were different, so I'll try correcting both those points before I give up.)

Running and a Canelé from

Tried running. My initial instinct to just do 1.5 km was correct: I did 3 km and it was a 1 km too much for my shins, although I'm fine. I'll not run tomorrow, watch for any problems, and try again Wednesday and keep it at just 2 km. My time was  20'38'', so near but under 7 min/km, which was what I was trying for: a slow run. Went too far because I got sucked into the Gaien Walk part of the Shinjuku History and Culture course (or at least the west half of it). Found another discrepancy between the posted 2010 version and the markers on the ground. Since the posted one crosses where you can't cross, I'm definitely going with old route and updated the map using the new information. I also did some refinements elsewhere for the entire Shinjuku course, as I've been more strict with routes that I've drawn more recently.

I compromised as far as store-bought cake and got a bakery-type cake from Noix de Beurre, at Isetan. I got a Canelé (for 194 yen), which I've been reading up on because I have a bunch of canelé forms for tartlets, although stainless steel ones rather than the copper ones that are supposed to be best for actually making canelé. Anyway, I've had this in the past and was disappointed, but I've had a lot of cakes since then and today had a better idea of what to expect, so I could appreciate it this time.

Definitely something I want to try to make, in a small amount at first, like one, maybe. My forms are huge compared to this thing (mine are 7.5 cm in diameter, but this was probably about 3 cm). In the meantime, I'll be sampling canelé from other places. Doesn't look like I'll get farther than Isetan during the week, so I'll look around there Wednesday. They are closed tomorrow, so I'll have pecan pastries again, which is fine. I know Sadaharu Aoki has chocolate ones.

Noix de Beurre: Chocolat Léger

Decided that yesterday was a new shop, so I should do a "great shop" today and save the next new shop for tomorrow. Also, wanted to do upper body workout at home and not mix it with running (which was how things starting going wrong last week). Went to Isetan and got the Chocolat Léger (yes, I'm tired of ignoring the accents) for about 600 yen from Noix de Beurre because, although I list them as "great", I've only blogged them once. 

As the name of the cake says, this is a light chocolate, which is inherently not that great (chocolate should be dark, or mixed with something stronger than cream). It's been a while since I had this, so I couldn't remember why it was just okay. Actually, I think I'm ready to downgrade this shop to not great, although I'd still have to try the Mille Feuille again to see how it stacks up, so to speak. In detail, this is thin layers of cake separating two thicker layers of cream and one layer of chocolate cream. Outside, is ganache with whipped cream on top. It's good as light chocolate cake, but not exciting enough to come back to.

Running and Patisserie Noix de Beurre fraise chantilly

Today I got cake first, from Noix de Beurre (ノワドゥブール at Isetan. The fraise chantilly (フレーズ・シャンティ) is basically a French short cake, only they don't dump the cream on it and add the strawberry on top and side until you order it (although it was still a couple hours before I ate it). It is 648 yen, so it is relatively expensive for their things. They are basically an in-house unit of Isetan rather than an outside shop like many of the counters there. I'm not a big fan of short cake, but this is great cake from a great shop. Plus just this cake was enough to make me feel very full after running (which does not tend to expand my stomach), probably because of all the cream, although I recovered in a hour for pizza, no problem.

Before eating it, I went for the run, which is a little dangerous, because my motivation is weaker and I wonder why do I run, can I just give it up forever now? After some warm-up running, I did my first lap around the Meiji Jingu Gaien, near where I usually start, and that problem was solved. I stopped between laps (all I had to time myself was my flip phone). Did 7:13, 6:30, and 6:27 times and thought, "Eh, I have to go again?" (since I hadn't gotten my best yet) and decided I wasn't going around a fourth time today. The track is just short of 1.4 km, so not that long but not a sprint. Next I jogged over to Akasaka Palace and did a lap around that in 18:54 as a benchmark for future runs. Apparently, it is 3.3 km around, plus it's not a flat course, so even if you don't do +5 km first, it's more challenging. If the weather holds (and they're warning that it may not be safe out in the evening), then I'll try a hill-focused run tomorrow.