Yoshinori Asami, Mille-feuille

In the afternoon, I hit the last of the exceptional shops that I intended to visit for new cake at this stage. I didn't even try to run with my current problems, I went by bicycle, which was fine for what I got, Mille-feuille. This shop sticks to rather basic/Japanese-semitraditional (not Japanese sweets, but relatively old Japanese versions of western-style sweets). Since mille-feuille fits in with this, and this being an exceptional job, I found it an excellent cake, which I usually do for traditional mille-feuilles, so it's sort of an easy cake to impress me with, if you take the trouble to make it, which I appreciate that they do.

This leaves Les Cacao as the low shop to beat as I start more seriously on the quite fine shops, which are going to take a while to get through.

Il Pleut sur la Seine, Le Turin

No cake and little running during the short week, but indoor exercise. Saturday I had a couple appointments, so didn't try a cake-off, but went for the last two (simple) exceptional shops I wanted another new cake for. After the morning appointment, I went to Il Pleut sur la Seine. They are only open a short time every week and they are expensive, but their main thing is the school, so maybe they do best with the basics. I got Le Turin, which if not basic, at least uses basic elements. The biscuit is hazelnut, which gives a special flavor and a nice texture. As the name suggests, the main flavor is chestnut, in different kinds of cream. The chestnut flavor isn't so heavy and it harmonizes well with the hazelnut. So good quality, interesting combination, and solids basic elements make this an excellent cake.

Coffee Parlor Hilltop, Pistache Chocolat (dome)

So, Sunday I went for one quite excellent shop and one quite superb shop, since I figured I wasn't going to get any cakes once the workweek restarted, which is turning out to more true than I expected (even if Isetan would open their normal hours, I couldn't get cake this week, from long work hours).

I started with a run/walk to Coffee Parlor Hilltop for an 8th cake from them. The cake that got them counted as exceptional was one great cake, Pistache Chocolat. Sunday too, they had a cake with that name, but it was obviously much different, so I gave it a try. This one I'll call Pistache Chocolat (dome) to keep it straight. Like it's name-sake, it has strawberry, perhaps much more. Inside the dome, there is a relatively lot of strawberry sauce for a nominally pistachio and chocolate cake. I'll say that it was colder than I should have eaten it (that sauce was a good heat sink). Even though I like cakes with an outer coating, this wasn't working as particular special. I appreciate the type and it was good, but this shop might have a tough time staying in the exceptional group, as any of the quite fine ones could challenge it with a great fourth cake, and there are a lot of shops in that list needing a fourth cake. 

Libertable, D'Or

Monday, working through bringing the exceptional shops up to 8 cakes, I paid a visit to Libertable at Akasaka. According to their homepage, they shut down their department store counters in March and now only have the main shop.  Glad they are still going, as they have very high-class cakes. Another nice point is that they are open late, so no problem visiting them. Was surprised that the huge selection compared to the past, though the space is the same as always, so maybe just I usually go when most things are sold-out. A relatively new cake for me, and a seasonal one, is the D'or, which is obviously in the mont-blanc family. Since my favorite from them (Charm, which they still have) also is, it seemed a reasonable choice. Besides the usual chestnut paste on the outside over whipped cream, this has an almond and chestnut center, red, rather than black, currant and fig as the fruit accent. It was definitely excellent, so I was satisfied. It's a pretty short run down there, though, and I walked back, but I'm rather lazy lately, I suppose.

Les Cacaos, Chuao

Thursday, I took the morning off, so I stuck to just my indoor routine Wednesday night and got to bed early. After a short run to the local government building to dispose of an old power block from a printer I was getting rid of the same day, I did a run out to Chez Lui near Shimo-Kitazawa for a mid-run pastry (resisting the temptation to stop to see what Paddlers Coffee, which was open, had). I went with the standard Pain au Chocolat, and it was good in a standard kind of way, so I'll try somewhere else next time. From there, I looped back south to pick up the trail that leads to Meguro River ran along there most of the way down to Gotanda. I stopped about about 2.2 km and 30 minutes out and walked from there (still arriving before opening and before anyone else had lined up, but just after they had put out the bench, so perfect timing). I went with Chuao, which is the name of a cacao growing region in Venezuela. Though this was new to me, it seems to be their standard chocolate cake, for a chocolate shop. Top is milk chocolate cream, whereas the layers are all mostly more substantial. Balance seems perfect, but like fruit, I'm not a great judge of gourmet chocolate perhaps. Not sure whether I'll make it that far before I give myself diabetes and have to give up sugar (I'm still getting an A on my blood sugar reports, though, so I'm safe for another year). Definitely good cake, which I enjoyed. They stay an exceptional shop, and I'll look forward when it's time to get the 9th cake. 

Noix de Beurre, Cheesecake

The other Noix de Beurre cake-for-two from three weekends back was the the Cheesecake, which was good, but plain, which is sort of their thing: the basic cakes with no surprises.

Ladurée, Saint-Honoré Rose Framboise

My last cake, bought and eaten, of the weekend was a new cake from a reopened shop on the exceptional list, Ladurée. Usually I would buy from Ginza Mitsukoshi, which was still closed, so this is from the Aoyama shop, which also has indoor and outdoor eat-in space, which was in use, though I got take-out. This was the only new cake, as they were keeping their line-up lean for the first weekend reopening in a neighborhood that's still mostly closed. It is the Saint-Honoré Rose Framboise. I like saint-honoré, but I've had one from them before, and the pastry is different from what I'm used to. For example, the large bottom is flaky, which seems impossible, though I haven't experimented with choux pastry that much. Anyway, the rose and raspberry flavors were sufficient rich, that I forgave them this time and allowed that maybe this pastry could be allowed, at least enough to call this an excellent cake.

I had after an evening running where I got maybe 60% through my 13 km neighborhood running course around Daikanyama. I was coming up to a turn and noticing a red brick tower in the distance ahead and had trouble thinking what building by the station it might beyond to. Then I noticed a cross on top and realized that I had missed a church on a side street. It's a nice building, too, though there a couple bigger ones in this neighbor (which has more churches than any other I know in Japan), so I was happy to find it, and quite my run, went back to my bicycle, and got some photos I was missing for Shibuya sites.

Il Pleut sur la Seine, Today's Cake

Visiting exceptional shops, I hit Il Pleut sur la Seine second on Sunday, which opened after being closed from the beginning of the state of emergency being declared, I think. I got "Today's Cake", which was how it was labeled. I asked the name and they told me, but I've forgotten, something not helpful or original, 1 word, like "seduction" or "satisfaction", but neither of those, I think. Anyway, I don't think it's a regular, although it s standard type I've seen elsewhere and once thought was great: it's three layers of bitter, milk, and white chocolate. Really, my tastes have moved on, so I should no better. It's not cheap, either. Of course, it is well made with good ingredients, so it was good, but it didn't make me want to return soon.

Fiorentina Pastry Boutique, Strawberry Tiramisu

Monday, I didn't work late and ran to Ginza Mitsukoshi, where I didn't find what I was looking for (though I forgot then to look at Ladurée, so I'll need to visit their Aoyama shop on the weekend, since everywhere else is completely closed), and headed over the Foiorentina Pastry Boutique, working on the cakes from quite exceptional shops. They're in a hotel, so I have to pass a body temperature test, but they let me into the lobby. At the cake counter, there was not a huge selection, but they were open. I got the Strawberry Tiramisu, which is a standard I've often seen. I'll say that it was good, but not more than expected. Sort of like soft cheese (compared to cakes in general) with strawberry flavoring.

Tuesday, I went to Isetan the last day before department stores shut down, so almost everything was sold out. I got the Florentin Nature from Sadaharu Aoki, and this was great, for what's basically a cookie. I haven't said that about any other cookie, so I'll need to keep sampling there from the category, but I'll need to do it at he Marunouchi shop on a weekend or holiday if I want to do it over the next month.

Pierre Gagnaire: Mousse aux Chocolat et Yuzu

Hard week at work. I ran the Minami-Motomachi--Samon-chou--Suga-chou--Shinanomachi--Wakaba--Yotsuya loop of the neighborhood course (successfully, but I'm revising it again) Tuesday late (ending about 10 pm). Wednesday, I was slightly less late and tried to go to Pierre Gagnaire, but arrived after 8 pm and they were sold out of all cakes. I'm still sampling snack places along the neighborhood course, so this time I hit NewDays and tried their little Baumkuchen Vanilla, which as the shown price indicates isn't the top of even their baumkuchen offerings. Actually, though, this was definitely good, better than either of the recent coffee shop baumkuchens.

At home, I also tried something from the organic grocery store Bio c' Bon. They actually have a fresh cake in the form of Benten-dou Cookie Choux from their "Gateau de nature du coeur" line. "Cookie", probably because it's a harder pastry than the soft ones usually found in convenience stores and the like, and maybe a little harder/less crisp than regular choux pasty, though not so different from Oyashiya Utchii's. The custard was a little different from that one, though it's not obvious that one was better than the other except that this one was sweeter, probably than it needed to me, whereas maybe the other would have been better sweeter. Anyway, this one was less than half the price for the same size, so I'm more satisfied with it.

Thursday, I managed to leave work by 7 pm and get to Pierre Gagnaire before 8 pm and they had a good selection. Since it was the end of the month, I figured the chances of a changeover Sunday is large (though maybe after White Day, March 14, is more reasonable; I can't remember the trend last year, but I'll maybe look around March 1 beyond just getting cake for that day). I went with a cake I've seen around for a while, the Mousse aux Chocolat et Yuzu. I keep avoiding it because it's easy to become tired of chocolate mousse and I've been disappointed by (usually dome) mousse cakes repeatedly. There is yuzu gelatine inside as well, so this really doesn't seem like something I should like, but the chef patisserie is not incompetent: the chocolate and yuzu are balanced: it's a true chocolate mousse taste with yuzu for flavor and it prevents one from getting overpowered by the mousse. This cake is fairly firm for mousse, but not gelatinous, which is why it's not trying to a dome, just lets gravity do it's thing. My complaint is they tape the bottom of the box and the bottom of the cake, so I'm in serious danger of destroying it when trying to pull it out, once I managed to cut the clear tape holding the paper cylinder around it and raise it exactly vertically to free it. I suppose a hot wire slid under the plastic try might cut the tape safely but there should be a better way. I decided that this cake was perfect and I had not substitute for it, so I can say its great. Looks like I'm going to be making regular trips to Pierre Gagnaire for at least a little while.

Rue de Passy, Mille-Feuille Praliné Citron

Started my Sunday run by heading down to Rue de Passy in Meguro-ku. They are on my exceptional shop list and were near the bottom, so I had been giving the top of the quite fine group a chance to challenge them but no replacement, so I finally went for the next two cake from them, #8. I ate in, which is usually the most convenient thing to do, but can affect the results. I decided that the Mille-Feuille Praliné Citron was the most promising even before noticing that it was the one recommend by the chef. The chef gave a good recommendation, as this was a great cake. Neither the praliné or the citron was very strong, but all the parts balanced well and I liked how a more buttercream filling rather than custard worked with mille-feuille. Not sure that it was actual butter cream or just there was enough nuts in the praliné to give that effect, but it worked either way. Too great cakes in less than a week: I feeling like I'm doing pretty good.

On the way I kept a sharp eye out for what shops were open, as I found too closures Saturday night and hadn't noticed some others. Lotus is looking different these days, and is hard to spot. I decided that Chavity right before them deserves to be a site on the neighborhood running map, but I'll need a different photo, as I got serious glare on the one I took. I'll also add Candyapple in Daikanyama-chou. Down near the Daikanyama Stn. the entire Tenoha shop block seems to have closed, so I'll probably need to revise that 10.4 km loop, but I'll put it off until its time do that clump.

Cake-off: Jean-Paul Hévin's Tonka over Viron's Mille-feuille

This week, I had a lot of working late, so no cake Wednesday to Friday. I managed to bicycle to Ginza Mitsukoshi before closing Wednesday and Thursday, but had a couple cakes in particular in mind that were not there. Friday, I didn't even try (I might have gotten there just before closing, which wouldn't be that useful on a Friday), but went to Isetan and confirmed that PH has a great cake in the line-up that has never had a cake-off (but I don't have an opponent for it right now) and the strawberry tart at SA is the one I've already had (which was excellent). Think I did one workout with weights one of those days, though I can't remember the details. Friday, I finished off confirming the updated Daikyou-chou--Shinanomachi loop and also confirmed the updated Shinjuku Gyouen clump (3 loops, 4.909 km) and definitely did a non-weights indoor workout.

Saturday, I went to Ginza Mitsukoshi again for cake-off materials, but I also confirmed that they had one of the cakes had been looking for but not the other one. I later found that Viron has a new cake, so I still have a backup for next time I go out there looking for new cakes, which might be tomorrow (I haven't decided where I want to go, and a new errand has come up). My main target for the cake-off was Tonka, which is one of their new cakes, from Jean-Paul Hévin for a fourth-round cake-off. They are currently two wins to one loss, so I matched them with the highest priority cake in that bracket, Viron's Mille-feuille. On the way back, I got a matcha chocolate bar from a new site on my Souga Gakkai clump route, though on the opposite end from the Souga Gakkai campus, near Yotsuya station, at the San Paolino shop, which is mostly sweets. I am saving it for later, to share, so I'll have to update this. While I was there, I noticed a castella place that should be on the Yotsuya north loop, so I revised the loop and will have to do confirmation runs another day.

Before cake, I went out again to try to confirm the Akasaka--Azabudai--Roppongi--Toranomon loop, as next in priority after the Daita-... loop, which I'll get back to another time. I knew the planned route fine, but the construction in Azabu 1 has expanded to the point that streets have disappeared, as well as a park and possibly a temple that was on my route, but the latter might have an entrance on the other side and still be there, though I didn't find one last time I looked. Anyway, I need to figure out a new route and try again. Actually, I'm not sure how the old loop was valid, unless there was an entrance to the Reiyukai Shakaden Temple on the old route that I can't remember now. On the loop, I stopped at the Pierre Gagnaire shop and got a Croissant d'Almonde. I don't know why I chose that one, since it's not my favorite type, but it always catches my eye. It was good but standard, which is too sugary even for me, but I won't let that put me off retrying other pastries from there. I also found another Japanese style sweets shop that I'll add as a site on the map, but there's still a lot of shops ahead of it, and cake and pastries are my priority.

I was pretty happy with cake-off this time, as expected. It was hard to choose, but Tonka is a great example of why I like JPH's cakes, and I've giving it the win. In the previous round for Viron's Mille-feuille, I had my doubts about it as a great cake, but even though it lost this time, I'm satisfied with it as on the list: it lacks subtly, but it seems to be a perfect classic mille-feuille, which I haven't had anywhere else and am happy to be able to eat.

Lenôtre, Feuille d'Automne Rouge

Tuesday, I failed again to get cake at Sadaharu Aoki, but reserved a piece to guarantee on Wednesday (as long as work didn't run too long). So once again I ran to Ginza, this time for Mitsukoshi and a cake for winning a cake-off. Since the winner was Feuille d'Automne, it seemed reasonable to get the Feuille d'Automne Rouge from Lenôtre, which is a raspberry version for Christmas. Ran both ways, this time, just to get home earlier, as I still had the indoor workout with weights to do.

As it happens, adding raspberry was in no way a bad idea, and this was a second new great cake in two days, as I had hoped. Both are seasonal, so I know what the next cake-off should be, since I don't have any other pairs of undefeated cakes ready to go. Guess I know where I'll go next Tuesday: Isetan (where Lenôtre is visiting for the week, or at least I assume that it's the regular week, though I better check, as Christmas disrupts the usual schedule).