Showing posts with label L'Echiquier. Show all posts
Showing posts with label L'Echiquier. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 6, 2018

Cake-off: Sadaharu Aoki's Mont D'or over Dalloyau's L'echiquier

Friday and worked the latest this week, so I abandoned my plan to do a 20 km run. Instead I thought I'd get a pastry from someplace new on my neighborhood courses map and finally verify the loop going by the U.S. Tokyo Embassy, which is just to go by Zuckerbackerei Kayanuma, though there are some perhaps famous-brand cafés among the new big complex, which the loop also circles around.

I decided to try Hitotsugicho Club for the pastry, really at the last minute (another shop is nearby and I didn't expect it to close early). I've never been in here. When I've gone by, I see through the window that they are a bakery, but I also see people that are dressed up, so I'm not sure whether there is bakery time and an event time. It turns out that they are a jazz club, at least on the weekend. No one was sitting at the front Friday night, they were all in the back stage area, and it was between sets, so I felt okay going in and getting something. I got what I think was labeled as Croissant Almonde, though it had been sliced open and inside was custard and I think strawberry sauce. I probably would have chosen something different if I had noticed the custard before buying, as it doesn't really fit my image of a serious pastry. The pastry was definitely good, despite the bottom being weakened by the moisture from the custard. The base almond croissant seemed excellent, so I'll look forward to visiting again even if I didn't respect (but did enjoy) this pastry. They are, after all, the best jazz club bakery that I know.

At Roppongi-douri, I suddenly decided that I wanted end my uncertainty about Saturday's cake-off by swinging by Sadaharu Aoki and asking the whether they would have the Mont D'or Saturday morning, and if not, whether the home shop would (since Isetan already told me that they were on their last day on Thursday night). At this point, I think, it's a matter of when they run out of prepared cakes/materials (it's fresh cake, in theory, but you could keep the main wet and dry parts frozen until needed). Even though the loop I want to try is tiny, I only had a few minutes of margin before the shop closed. As it happens, they checked in back for me and they would be selling Mont D'or Saturday morning and ask me whether I wanted to reserve one, so I prepaid for one cake. Saturday morning, I went out by approximately the same route (though I didn't swing by Hitotsugicho Club) and did do the loop before proceeding to Ginza Mitsukoshi to get L'echiquier from Dalloyau (I had a Jean-Paul Hévin backup in case L'echiquier was not in their limited lineup, but it was, as was a new limited spring cake that I think I'll get next week). Then I ran back to Midtown with my one cake and mostly walked the two cakes home (since running with two cake boxes is awkward and I worry about my tendinitis).

Both these cakes lost their first cake-off rounds but remained in the great list (which many didn't, so actually I have a lot fewer choices when trying to match them up for the second round). L'echiquier represents a perfect representation of a kind of light chocolate and cream layer cake, and I've been questioning inclusions of cakes have similar credentials recently as I've started the second round. This is still something I appreciate and want again (i.e., great), even if my preference tend toward other kinds of cakes, such as the Mont D'or, which has a pound cake type base and a rich ganache-like upper part creating a harmony of textures and chocolate and chestnut flavors accented with cassis.

In the evening, I shared one more cake, which looked tiny in the store but was dense, so half or a third would have been enough. I'm not sure that this counts as fresh cake, seeming more like a weekend cake, but I won't worry about that now. this is the Caramel Apple Cake from Baked, an American brand with a counter at Isetan. The plate is the usual small plate I use for individual petites gâteaux, but the cake is three dense layers, so this is a lot of cake even for two people. It was very American, very dense in terms of flour and butter, and enough apple to give a taste. The shown amount of caramel barely registers. It's good for what it is but I'll keep sticking mostly to petites gâteaux.

Sunday, June 11, 2017

Cake-off: Frédéric Cassel's Tan Gram over Dalloyau's L'Echiquier

It was time for another cake-off, and I just had time on Saturday evening to gather than competitors, though I probably could have done this any evening: the shops are close to each other and open until 8 pm and 9 pm, and the cakes are year-round offerings. Also, both of these shops are top level shops, though different markets. Frédéric Cassel is a counter in a high-end department store, also has chocolates and a few kinds of macarons, There are only a few regular cakes and then a few inspirations centered on a theme and although confirming to a few set forms that only get varied over the medium term, compared to the short-term inspiration, which is once per month. Dalloyau has counters around town, but they are also a bakery, have wider selection of macarons and in Ginza have a café restaurant. Their selection is more than a dozen, with just a few changes each month.

The run was not direct: I tried to minimize stopping rather than distance or time, although I didn't want to completely run in circles and did have a deadline, so that only added a few kilometers. Today, I did 13 km total averaging 10 km/h each way.

I let the both cake warm up a bit (less than 10 minutes), which was good for L'Echiquier from Dalloyau, which is cream, but the mousse in the Tan Gram was on the edge of collapsing, so not so good for it. Never the less, the rich chocolately Tan Gram, with it's crunch, easily beat the lighter L'Echiquier. Both are great, but the Tan Gram is really great, which is one reason why I need these cake-offs, so I can have great cakes I haven't had in long enough that I've forgotten what was great about them.

Tuesday, September 29, 2015

14 km Ginza run

So my back went from agony if I moved the wrong way, specifically, trying to sit up from leaning back using the muscle on the right side, to discomfort, although it was creeping up through the day. Ran 14 km going first by Origines Cacao (which apparently closes at 8 pm, which I've now written on their card, too late for today due to working late), to Aux Bacchanales, where I decided that I should let the two cakes that I've had stand because they aren't really a great cake shop, just a cafe with a couple great cakes. Still, I want to know where the great cake is, especially if it is somewhere accessible, but I don't need to prioritize trying everything they have. So I went to Dalloyau, which took 51 min of running, but coming back was only 35 min, since I took a basically direct course. That's actual running time rather than total. So 86 min for 14 km seems pretty good under the conditions, with 35 of it carrying cake (with some strong winds, which is one hazard when cake-running).

At Dalloyau, I got L'Echiquier for 540 yen, which in France has half a little white chocolate pawn, but here they don't bother here, though I think that we get more mousse in ours, judging by the picture online from France. Anyway, it's layers of what seem to be white, milk, and dark chocolate mousse with just enough chocolate cake between to make it cake-like rather than just a mound of mousse. The top frosting is good too. Great cake from a great shop. Now, they give me a loyalty card, after I've had almost everything. Only need another 9500 yen of purchases for a free cake, or 19500 yen for lunch, or 29500 yen for dinner.