Various non-cake

Saturday, I made my first real attack on the (as currently constituted) Daita--Daizawa--Hatagaya--Kamiyamachou--Kitazawa--Komaba--Motoyoyogichou--Nishihara--Oohara--Ooyamachou--Shouto--Tomigaya--Uehara loop. This is 30+ km. I had hoped that I would be able to run about 3 hours, but with the walking for taking photos of the majority of landmarks that I hadn't already visited, I was on my feet for more than 4 hours after under 2.5 hours of running. Also, I did a bad job of planning provisions, so I was out of physical energy, as well as low on phone battery and losing the light. My course had me running to the point by the Honmachi 1 intersection and I ended around Ikenoue Station, which I used to return, as my feet were sore (but in a normal way that I recovered from by the next day).

Croissant (Asterisque)

Had a few snacks and saw some interesting things. Near the beginning, in the part that I had already checked and photographed, I got a croissant from Asterisque, which was busy, like other similar places in Uehara, so it took a while. As appropriate for a quite good cake shop, they had an excellent croissant, which was suitably flaky on the outside and sufficiently baked on the inside: best of the recent ones I've had.

Auro Chocolate Japan

I need to adjust my course around there, but by chance I went by a building with a new chocolate store. I've yet to sample local beans-to-bar shops for chocolate, since that's not my focus, but I wanted to add it to my map, so I went in. It's deep in the back of the second floor, where no one else was going, so while the coffee and donut shop around the corner had a long line, this place was empty. I felt sorry for them, but not enough to buy chocolate, which I wasn't ready to eat (I hadn't eaten the croissant yet) and didn't want to run with. Their name is Auro Chocolate Japan, so I'll give them this shout out. I was certainly attracted to some items and regretted not buying later, when all I was visiting was park after park.

Of course, some parks are more distinctive than others. 

Egg Tart (Toyonchinotomago)

My next food was at an egg store, which was not on my map, so I added it. They also had some (packed) cake, but I bought an egg tart. I should not have been surprised about how eggy it was. Still, it was good. I think the crust was fairly solid, versus a flaky crust. This was from Toyonchinotamago (Toyonchi's Eggs). 

Soon afterward, I encountered a complex that had a bakery cafe (Tolo) and Shiro-Hige's Cream Puff Factory, which makes Totoro-shaped cream puffs. It's in a dark little relatively wooded nook where, if you're not looking for it, it would be hard to find, but the fans come. 

It was not long (or maybe it was, as there were a lot of photo-stops in between) before I was very hungry again, so I got a donut at a shop that also I think was not on the original map, Captain's Donuts. These are extremely lightly fried, so pretty moist, though not raw. Not very modern. I think this was just called Donut. Doesn't really need much else, though I should check when I next go by.

The most interesting place I saw was The Setagaya Catholic Church. Note what I expected to find near Shimo-Kitazawa Station, which is packed with old shops and young people. This is a theatre area, so lots of artists, I suppose.

I was still really hungry at this point, having only had breakfast about 8 hours before. So I visited the local cake shop on the way to the station. I thought about getting actual cake, but wasn't very confident about them, so I went with their Croissant. This small croissant turned out to be the soft, hotel-type breakfast croissant, which is okay with jelly or something, but doesn't belong elsewhere. Still, it was okay for what it was. The shop was P. Pierre, its typical of little traditional neighborhood cake shops. I'll consider the croissant a suitable sample and not feel very compelled to try their cake.

Cake-off: Viron's Gateau au Chocolat over Jean-Paul Hévin's Guayaquil

I'm a couple days behind because there were a couple days without cake.

Sunday, I did a similar run to Friday's, along the History and Culture course from the start of the Gaien Walk to Hibiya Park, with the only difference being that I took the slightly longer way (and definitely hillier way) past Akasaka going back but also stopped at Lawson 100. This was about 12 km at 9 km/h. There was not cake, but there was desert from Kyobashi Sembikiya, which is a fruit place. I just got the Fruit Yogurt, which was more than half banana and not any better than what I have every day for breakfast and four times the price (although we had a 500 yen ticket to use, so that covered 1/3 of two desserts). The other double-priced and slight better dessert was Melon Bavarois.

Monday, I tried going to Le Coeur Pur, which it turns out has moved, so 19 km averaging 9 km/h, though that is in the rain and passing through dense commuting crowd (with umbrellas) from the intersection of Meiji and Yasukuni north of Shinjuku San-chome Station through to at least West Shinjuku Station, and to a less extent at every Marunouchi Line station. As with Ginza, it's probably faster (or at least less frustrating and safer) to go underground and walk under the Shinjuku Station area, which is what I did coming back, from the Odakyu entrance (which, by the way, is the department store where we picked up yesterday's fruit desserts). Because I had no cake and spent an extra kilometer looking around outside and then more effort walking inside around Ogikubo Station the the department store), I decided to treat myself to a Mr. Donut Angel French cruller on the way back, which was good (they are lighter than American donuts, though I'm not sure about U.S. Mr. Donut in particular). Didn't mind not getting cake, since I was planning a cake-off for today anyway.

Cake-off meant getting Guayaquil from Isetan and then running to the Marunouchi Viron for Gateau au Chocolat, which I did successfully. I took the long, hillier way down to Aoyama Avenue going out and came back up the side of Akasaka coming back, though the times were not that different (at least carrying cake) despite the more than 1 km difference, and with the lights I'm not sure that the short way is much faster. It was about 12 km, with the great part at 10 km/h going and 9 km/h coming back. Both cakes are definitely great, so it was hard to choose (but fun comparing). In the end, I decided the Viron's Gateau au Chocolat deserved the win for it's greater simplicity (it's a uniform cake, whereas the Guayaquil is maybe half ganache in layers and falls apart when cut) and lower price, but this is not a single-elimination competition, so if and when I get to a second round, Guayaquil won't miss its chance against another first-round loser.

Definitely Excellent Tokyo cake shops and Kyunakasendo History and Culture course

Haven't been able to train because of a cold, so I didn't try increase my distance. Also, very slow. I had gone out early in the morning, as there was a pause in the raining and the weather report then was rain at 1 mm/h from noon to 6 pm (whereas <1 mm at 9). The heaviest rain was coming back, although naturally from 1 pm it's been dry.

I manged 7.62 of slow running to get to the start of the Kyunakasendo History and Culture course.

The first part is the Land of "Yukari" Yoshino Cherry Walk from Komagome Station through a winding  path around cemeteries to Koshinuka Station and then as the Itabashi Guest House Walk continues up the same road to Itabashihoncho Station. There was one confusing marker that I had to go back and check early on (it was rotated, so I misinterpreted its recommended route) and the main straight shot switches sides of the road a few times with no warning (there isn't really any mechanism in their system from crossing the road and continuing in the same direction, other than to put a marker on the other side of the road and hope people notice). Due to some doubling back, it as a very slow 6.67 km.

During the H&C course running, after the 1 hour mark of the today run, I stopped at a 7-11 for a Caramel & Crunch Donut, which is 317 kcal, 2.8 g protein, and 120 yen. This is a good donut. And a donut is cheap, convenient cake. So when I buy fresh cake, I want something better than a donut, something excellent, to feel that it was worth the money and effort.

I just got slower from there for the next 5.05 to French Pound House. I choose this because it is close to the route (which I followed back, at least the long straight bit) and I had had written that it was good but never posted about it. I chose L'automne, which is kabocha (pumpkin/squash) with almond clusters on top and layers of vanilla, caramel, and chocolate cream, for 395 yen + 8% tax. I ate in, so there was also Early Grey teat for 450 yen + tax. The cake was good, although the cake part was a little different, sort of pancake like, in being a little rubbery, in the sense of resisting my fork, but no taste or texture problems. The taste was fine (the kabocha taste seems to go fine with the others, although its contribution is subtle). As I said, the cake was only good, so I could as well have had another donut.

If the previous was super slow, the last 6.75 km home was ex-super slow, but I don't need to track below very slow, so I'll just say that I ran 7.6 slow and 18.5 very slow.

Continuing the discussion of yesterday, of having identified 7 definitely great cake shops (sells enough great cake while avoiding good or worse cake) and 2 that are tentatively ranked great but need further review, I have 35(?) excellent cake shops. Doing the math, that's four time as many, so I should top up all my greats to 8 cakes before I worry about bring my excellent ones to 2 cakes, though I have to make use of the opportunities I have, and my first priority for the weekend is doing new history and culture courses.

The few definitely (relatively) excellent cake shops are as follows:

(1) Aigre-Douce. Near Mejiro Station. This is so French, I see French people visit there. Definitely some excellent and great cakes. It's a pretty big place and does a lot of business.

(2) Au Bon Vieux Temps (Kawata Pere Fils). Way out there in Oyamadai, two stations west from Jiyugaoka.

(3) Bigarreaux. On Sazae-san street south from Sakurashimmachi. Not huge, and only two tables for eating in, but nice.

(4) Fraoula. Actually, for cake, this fails as excellent, because of too many good and an only okay cake, but some excellent/great baked goods (croissant and bostock, particularly).

(5) Lettre d'Amour. In Shirogane. Has café. Never seem to be very busy, though.

(6) Origines Cacao. In Jiyugaoka. Very close to being great.

(7) Ryoco. In Takanawa, not so far from Lettre d'Amour. No café and very busy (expect a line or early sell-out).

These all started out as Great or "Worthy", which is why I've had enough visits to nail down their excellence. The other 28, which I won't list, will require time to sort through. I hope to get there, but don't want to divert too much attention from the great shops.